Page:Rambles on the Golden Coast of New Zealand.djvu/181

Rh and then a stray bullock is seen, but beyond this, and the birds of the bush merrily singing, very little life is discernible. The road now becomes good and level. Six miles from the Hope Junction Hotel, the Hope River is crossed, and, ten miles further on, we reach the base of a high range where the houses of a few cockatoo settlers are situated. The traveller now begins to ascend this range, which winds about in the most tiresome and fantastic manner. The road to the summit is very long, but not steep. On the opposite side the descent is of a corresponding nature, but, owing to the greater and thicker growth of bush, is more sheltered. When the summit is reached a good view of the surrounding wild and romantic country is obtainable. Very little clear ground is visible, and in looking backwards towards the road recently trodden, nothing is seen except bush-clad hills and valleys. On a warm day, the journey down the range is very pleasant, the delicious coolness caused by the dense bush preventing old Sol’s scorching rays from falling too hotly on the devoted head of the traveller. Bounteous nature has been also profuse in her beauteous gifts. On the left a beautiful little stream glides calmly and peaceably by, seemingly enjoying itself in its onward course. In its bed you can discern sands of various colours, and on its bank ferns of different species, and plants and leaves of various textures. Three miles further on, that is twelve miles from the foot of the Hope Saddle, brings you to the Motupiko Valley Accommodation House, the proprietor being Mr Fogden, formerly of Nelson. Six miles from this, the Motueka River is reached. There are two accommodation houses here—Hopgood’s on the coast side, and Bramall’s on the Nelson side, of the river. After leaving Bramall’s we continue our journey along a good hard road; on the left are portions of Spooner Range, covered with fern, and on the right, green pastoral fields. Travelling on a few miles we reach the foot of Spooner Range, the ascent and descent of which are somewhat similar to those of the Hope Saddle, but as regards bush or scenery, there is absolutely none, with the exception of the tall fern and a streamlet here and there. On reaching the summit, the scenery is really magnificent. Below is seen the charming valley of the Waimeas, Wakefield, etc. The Port Hills, which are the only obstruction preventing a sight of Nelson itself. The high mountains of Collingwood, Takaka, and Motueka to the left, Blind Bay in the centre, and away in the distance that intricate but romantic passage, the French Pass, can be clearly seen. At the foot of the Spooner Range the first real settlement is reached, viz., Belgrove, the present terminus of the Nelson railway. Twenty-two miles from this by railway, brings us into Nelson. Passing on our way, Fox Hill, Upper and Lower Wakefield, Spring Grove, Brightwater, Hope, Richmond, the latter place being Nelson’s largest inland town, and rapid strides towards its further development are being made by its pushing and enterprising inhabitants each year. After leaving Richmond, the next station is Stoke, one of the prettiest little spots in New Zealand. Four miles further on Nelson is reached. And there ends a long but pleasant journey, which in the early days of the West Coast frequently entailed a month’s labour, but which now can be accomplished in a couple or three days, but which, let us hope, will yet, and before many years, be ridden over by the iron horse daily.