Page:Popular Science Monthly Volume 92.djvu/785

 Popular Science Monthly

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��chine bolts, each 1 Yz in. long, fasten each jaw to its boom with the end of gooseneck pointing forward and its extreme end flush with boom end. Brass nuts and washers will keep the fastenings tight and

���The brass floor plate fastened to ribs and floor grating construction to strengthen it

bolts should be sawed off flush with nut and filed smooth.

To properly step the masts you will require two 1^ in. mast plates. Fig. 9, with four 3/16 in. machine screws ^i in. long with brass nuts and washers to each mast plate, two flag pole plates, Fig. 10, with a. l^i in. diameter hole. One of these will require three flat headed ma- chine screws to fit screw holes in same, and of a length equal to combined thick- ness of forward deck, flag pole plate, and nut and washer. The other flag pole plate will require machine screws ^ in. long with nuts and washers. Two pieces of 3^4 -in. brass will also be re- quired whose dimensions will depend upon the construction of the canoe.

The after plate should be wide enough to extend ^4 in. beyond the flan- ges of the mast plate and long enough to ex- tend from the after side of one rib to the forward side of the next. This will be found clearly illustrated in Fig. 11.

If the stem piece of the canoe termi- nates in a flat triangular board, the for-

���A sail plan for a sixty-ei attachments placed on

��ward plate should be of the shape of this board; otherwise make it a duplicate of the after plate. After getting the plates shaped, file down edges and round corners, so that they will not cut your hands or mar luggage. Then bore the after plate as shown in diagram to take eight H in. wood screws just long enough to go through ribs without penetrating the planking, and countersink on upper side. The location of screw holes for forward plate depends upon its size and shape.

Fasten one of the flag pole plates to upper side of after end of forward deck with center of hole coinciding with center line of canoe and set as far forward as possible without allowing mast to jam on after edge of deck. The nuts and washers of fastenings should be under the deck.

Get a piece of ^ in. oak, cherry or ma- hogany from 7 to 10 in. wide and as long as the width (front to back) of after seat. Lay second flag pole plate on one end of this plank with centre of hole coinciding with center of plank and with hinge line flush with edge of board. Mark position of screw holes of plate on plank and drill for the machine screws that fit plate, counter sinking on opposite side from plate for nuts and washers. This plank is to be screwed to under side of after seat frame with the mast plate on under side and with hole of flag hole plate in center of boat. Round-headed machine screws, with nuts and washers coming underneath the plank, are to be used as fastenings.

To hold plank in place while it and the seat frames are bored simultaneously, a pair of clamps or even monkey wrenches may be used. Stretch a line from cen- ter of stem post to center of stern post. Mark cen- ter line fore and aft on the M in. brass plates. Lightly fasten these floor plates in their proper places with their center lines coinciding with that of canoe. Lay the mast plates on the floor plates, flange down, and through the flag

��ght-square-foot rig with a seventeen-foot canoe

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