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other end dry for finishing the erasure. Use a clean piece of cotton each time you have occasion to remove any paint.

Varnish is not applied merely for the purpose of securing a highly polished surface, but also as a protection to the underlying coats of color.

Have your paint shop clean before you start varnishing. Allow no open doors, or cracks to conduct a dust laden current of air against the freshly varnished surface.

Let the heat of the shop and that of the varnish be the same, say about 70 degrees. Never have it cold.

After having dusted off the car take the large var- nish brush (23/2 in.) and put the varnish on, but not too thick. Do not fill your brush so heavily that the var- nish will run down the handle while you are working. Just put enough paint on the brush to go over the space easily, and never work all the varnish out of the brush before taking up a fresh brushful.

Do not tickle the surface with short strokes; but brush easily from one side to the other, and then up and down. This is called cross-brushing, and gives uniform depth to the coat, which is just what you want to secure. For all surfaces that can- not be conveniently coated with the big brush, use the %-in. brush. Varnish the moldings or raised portions around the panels the same way in which they run; that is, follow their lines along or around the surfaces they enclose. You can run across them with the big brush, but always finish with the small brush in the way described.

Always finish one section first, if possible. Take a door or a panel and complete it before going on to the next one. Pick out the small areas first and by the time you tackle a big stretch you will have more confidence to handle it.

As you go along, take up any varnish

��Popular Science Monthly

���Putting on the initials of the owner's name in the center of the front automobile door

��that has run or shows a tendency to gather thickly at the edges of the panels, etc. Never miss any spot, however small. If you do, you will just naturally try to patch it, (after the rest of the surface has set) and botch the whole job.

In varnishing the wheels, be careful to keep the varnish from running down the spokes and settling thickly between them where they enter the hub. After varnishing the rim, spin the wheel easily, holding the brush lightly against it to smooth out and join the laps on the rim. Finish the hub in the same manner.

When the job looks right, surfaces evenly covered, no thick places at the edges, and all places coated, put your brush away arvd leave the car alone. Stand the hood cover on its edge so that the dropping dust will not fall on it. Lay a board sup- ported on two tres- tles over the mud- guards for the same purpose, or use an adjustable shield. Allow plenty of time for the last coat of varnish to dry. Let it stand for two or three days at least. When thoroughly dry, wash it with clean, cold water, dry with a soft chamois and the car is ready for use. You may possibly have some trouble in mixing your priming coat. Better mix it a day or two before you begin work. This will give you a chance to try it on the sur- face, for drying and hardening qualities. Don't get it thick. It may need a little more Japan to harden it or turpentine to thin it out, but it will not require any additional oil. Keep it in a tightly topped can, and it will be all right when needed. Good coach putty should dry hard, and stand sandpapering without scaling or softening. One authority suggests a putty composed of 3 parts whiting and raw lin- seed oil mixed with 1 part white lead. A little Japan should be added to harden it. This putty must be stiff and well worked up. Another prescription calls for a mix-

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