Page:Popular Science Monthly Volume 91.djvu/150

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��Popular Science Monthly

��goods are 36 in. wide, there are eight of these seams. So 6 in. have been lost. This requires a portion of another strip 8 in. plus 1 3^2 m - plus % in., equal to ioj^ in. wide. Along the top edge, turn back 2 in. ; turn under the raw edge, and sew as in- dicated at F. The end flap is next attached as shown at G, using the method shown at D and allowing the finished heading to stand outside. If the stripes are of equal width, get a tin-can lid, a tea-cup, or other circular object the same diameter as the width of stripe, and with chalk draw a line on the goods half the width of the stripe from the edge of the valance, which must be first trimmed straight and true. Scribe alternate semi-circles in successive stripes, and cut out a wavy line on this scribing. The raw edge so produced must be bound with woolen tape, which can be purchased where the cloth is procured. It will take about eighteen yards of tape to bind the valance for this awning.

An alternate method would be to cut a slash, 4 in. long and 1 in. wide, Yi in. on each side of each stripe line, or each alter- nate stripe line, if the stripes are equal and regular. For an irregular stripe a spacing can be selected and repeated without regard to the stripes. This method will require 30 to 40 yards of tape for binding. Be sure to use wool tape in red, blue, white or green, all of which are fast colors. Cotton tape is always bleached by the weather.

The frame is made of ^-in. galvanized pipe and malleable fittings. Cast fittings are too bulky. For this frame two elbows, and six tees are required. Four of these tees, which form the hinges against the porch posts, must be cut with a hack-saw, as shown at J in the drawing. This will reduce the length of the tee arm to about h /% or % in. From a piece of galvanized sheet steel, say }/% in. or number 10 or 12 gage, make four double brackets as shown at K. Drill and countersink these on the center line of the back for two 10 by iJ4-in. wood screws. Drill a hole for a short ^8-in. bolt through both ears. When they are finished this far, drop them in a glass jar filled with bluestone solution, 4 oz. bluestone or blue vitriol to a pint of water. Leave them for several hours. Remove from the jar and dry. Polish them with an old rag, and you will find all the spots left after the galvanizing was removed are now plated with copper and rust proof. If dipped in strong vinegar before placing in the bluestone bath they will plate more

��readily and take a heavier coat. Do the same with the cut tees and the hinge bolts. When all this is attended to, the frame is assembled by screwing up the threaded ends of the pipe into the fittings. Make up good and tight, everything square, and lay the awning down as shown in G, lay the frame on it in the proper position, and pro- ceed to put on the pocketing material. This is a strip of the awning material, 3 in. wide and 7 ft. long, sewed to the line where the slope stops and the valance begins. When sewed true on one side, turn the strip over the frame and sew to the awning above the frame as shown at L. This must be done along the front so that the weight of the frame holds the awning taut when lowered. For the ends, it is only necessary to put on a strip of the material 3 in. wide near the hinge. All raw edges of the valance as well as the seams for the ends and where the valance joins the slope, should be bound with the wool braid, care- fully run on by machine. Soft laid cotton cord about x /i in. in diameter, run through small galvanized-iron pulleys, will serve to raise and lower the awning. A lead of this should be placed in the center of each panel and all cords led to one end where a cleat is provided to fasten them.

��Fastening an Oar-Lock to Keep It from Falling Out

IF an oar fits a lock snugly the lock is likely to be pulled out of the socket when the oar is re- moved, and it may be lost. I have found that fastening such a lock in the man- ner illustrated will prevent this. A stout cord is tied to one arm of the lock and run through a screw- eye turned into the block or oar- lock base as shown in Fig. 1. A small metal bar is fastened to the other end of the string. The bar when turned parallel to the string, as in Fig. 2, can be slipped through the eye of the screw. To keep the bar from slipping out of the knot a depres- sion should be filed out in its center, circling the bar. — G. P. Lekmann.

���Fastening an oar-lock securely with a string

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