Page:Popular Science Monthly Volume 90.djvu/148

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��Popular Science Monthly

��particularly strong and serviceable way, and is not at all difficult.

Begin by putting in the toe-cord first, as shown in Fig. 8. The thongs should cross the frame about six times, so as to form a strong mainstay. As shown in Fig. 8 the common clove-hitch is used for binding the strands solidly together. The end is then twisted around the toe-cord and carried up and over the upper cross-brace, then twisted down and around itself to form the first toe-cord stay or support, which is clearly shown in Fig. 9.

The work of filling the center may now proceed, as shown in Fig. 10. As each strand is numbered in the drawing, the work of filling the frame will be found easy, using the illustration for a pattern.

The toe-hole — through which the toe of the moccasin works up and down in the act of walking — should be about 4 in. wide. Continue filling the center until about a 4-in. space is left, then stop twisting the strands around the cross-brace and weave through the toe-cord. It is important to finish the toe-cord as smoothly as possible, for any knots or roughness here will chafe the feet. All splices should be made as close to the frame as possible, but not on it. If the pattern is followed, the filling will end in the middle of the toe-cord. Weave it through here several times to finish and secure the end.

The toe-hole may now be finished by taking a new thong, and looping it around the cross-brace beside the toe-hole. Carry the end down close to the toe-cord stay, loop it around the toe-cord, then carry back up and around the cross-brace and wind it down over the toe-cord stay, closely wrapping it as shown in Fig. II. The end is now wound around the toe-cord over to the toe-cord stay on the other side of the toe-hole, which is wound in the same way as the one just made. Secure the end of the thong by weaving in and out between the toe-cord strands three or four times.

The snow-shoe is now finished, and it should be laid aside to thoroughly dry. This must be done in an ordinary room, because the hide will not prove durable if exposed to bright sunlight or if the drying is hastened by putting the shoes near the fire.

The regulation snow-shoe harness, con- sisting of a leather stirrup for the toe, and the instep and heel-strap, is more comfort- able than a thong and when it is adjusted to the foot the shoes may be taken off and put on quickly.

��Climbing an Unspiked Pole by Means of a Piece of Heavy Wire

TO CLIMB a pole of any kind that is not fitted with spikes or cleats and where lineman's spurs are not available, or a pole such as a flag pole, where spurs can- not be used lest the polished surface be marred, take a piece of heavy wire and make a loop around the pole about 4 in. larger in size than the diameter of the pole and make a smaller loop in the other end to fit one foot.

When you clasp the pole with the arms and raise the foot, the loop on the pole will slip up, and when the weight of the body is put on it the large loop will bind on the pole and hold the climber in compara- tive safety until a Climbing pole with g^asp is taken higher looped end wire up on the pole.

���Making Tenons on Thin Rails and Slats

IN making tenons on the ends of some slats for the sides of a mission Morris chair, I found difficulty in cutting them out with a saw in the usual manner, because the slats were so thin. The following jig, set up in a few minutes, enabled me to cut perfect tenons 3^ in. thick on material % in. thick and 2 in. wide, removing 1/16 in. from each side. To a hardwood base- piece, A, about 12 in. long and 6 in. wide, two pieces of the same material, B and C, were nailed on its upper surface, a piece being used between as a gage and the nails driven diagonally to fasten them tight. Crosspieces of material about i in. thick and with square edges were then nailed on at E, F and G, the latter two being spaced by the thickness of the tenon saw- blade. An auger-hole i in. in diameter was bored as shown to cut halfway in each piece F and G. The whole was nailed to the work-table near its edge and an ordinary clamp held it in position, the clamp being

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