Page:Popular Science Monthly Volume 82.djvu/345

Rh Vitis labrusca, first represented by the Alexander, has furnished more cultivated varieties than all the other American species together, no less than 500 of its varieties having been grown in the vineyards of the country. There are several reasons why it is the most generally cultivated species. It is native to the parts of the United States in which agriculture soonest advanced to a state where fruits were desired. In the wild, the Labrusca grapes are the most attractive, being largest and handsomest in color—among all grapes it alone shows black, white and red-fruited forms on wild vines. There is a northern and a southern form of the species and its varieties are therefore widely adapted to climates and to soils. The flavor of the fruits of this species, all things considered, is rather better than that of any other of our wild grapes, though the skins in most of its varieties have a peculiar aroma, somewhat pronounced in the well-known Concord, Niagara and Worden, which is disagreebledisagreable [sic] to any who are accustomed to the pure flavors of the European grapes. Unfortunately few varieties of this species are adapted to wine-making, as the fruits lack both sugar and acid and impart to wines an unpleasant aroma and taste. All varieties of Vitis labrusca submit well to vineyard operations and are vigorous, hardy and productive, though they are more subject to the dreaded phylloxera than are most of the other cultivated native species.

Of the many grapes of the labrusca type, at least two deserve brief mention.

The Catawba, the first American grape of commercial importance, is the most interesting variety of its species. The origin of the variety is not certainly known, but all evidence points to its having been found about 1800 on the banks of the Catawba River, North Carolina. It was introduced into general cultivation by Major John Adlum, soldier of the revolution, judge, surveyor, and author of the first American book on grapes. Adlum maintained an experimental vineyard in the District of Columbia, whence in 1823 he began the distribution of the Catawba. At that time the center of American grape culture was about Cincinnati, and an early shipment of Adlum's Catawbas went to Nicholas Longworth, grandfather of the present bearer of that name, and was by him distributed throughout the grape-growing centers of the country. As one of the first to test new varieties of American grapes, to grow them largely and to make wine commercially from them, Nicholas Longworth is known as the "father of American grape culture."

The Catawba is still one of the four leading varieties in the vineyards of eastern America. The characters whereby its high place is maintained among grapes are: great elasticity of constitution, by reason of which it is adapted to many environments; rich flavor, long-keeping quality, and handsome appearance, qualities which make it a very good dessert grape; high sugar content and a rich flavor of juice, so that