Page:Popular Science Monthly Volume 71.djvu/297

Rh, stop at Leith, the port of Edinburgh, and then variously steam northward to Thorshavn on the Faroe Islands. and thence to Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland at its 'southwestern headland, or turn to the eastern coast of Iceland at once, and circuitously, landing at the settlements and towns in the fiord valleys, circumnavigate it, finally disembarking the traveler at Reykjavik.

It was in the latter way that the writer determined to gain some insight into the coastal features of Iceland before he made a short but instructive dash into the interior, from Reykjavik, using for that purpose the indispensable Iceland pony. This is that most conscientious, affectionate and captivating little beast, whose docility and pliability—when knowingly liandled—have made him the Icelander's constant companion, his only available substitute for the trolley and the railroad.

The omniscient Cooke has not been unmindful of the prospects of profit from the chance tourist drawn to the fabled shores of Iceland, and has already provided excursion tickets from New York to Iceland with accompanying arrangements for the equipment and conduct of parties into the interior. In this way the soi-disant explorer may most conveniently form his plans for this unusual outing. Less dependent and more ambitious men arrange with leading guides at Reykjavik for the despatch of men and horses and provisions to the east coast from Reykjavik. They meet these expeditions at some of the settlements, and traverse the island from east to west, fording the rivers, hunting over the moors, fishing in the lakes and streams, possibly skirting the huge icefields, and reaching Reykjavik in time for the returning steamers in September. A third and most important group of visitors are professional men, who also take out considerable equipment, in which clinometers, barometers, thermometers, hammers and collecting boxes and bags replace the gun and rod.

Amongst the latter has been Professor Thorold Thoroddsen, of the University of Copenhagen, who for thirty years has made a laborious inspection of the natural features of Iceland, visiting under circumstances of danger and extreme discomfort, its most inaccessible localities, and Professor K. Keilhack, the German naturalist, whose articles both in geology and in natural history have aided greatly in the scientific interpretation of this domain of wonders, while Professor Slater, of the British Museum, has only recently contributed, in his admirable account of the birds of Iceland, the garnered results of his travel and observation to the growing library of Icelandica. In this connection I should mention the capital "Flora Icelandica," of Stefan Stefansson, which has recently appeared, and wherein the botany of Iceland receives an extended and systematic treatment.

The approach to Iceland was made in an impervious and haunting