Page:Popular Science Monthly Volume 30.djvu/334

 that he sees us swallow, at a single meal, a quantity that would suffice him for two or three days. The whole dish is screened with a hood of straw, covered with cloth, which protects the meats against dust and keeps them warm. The head of the house removes the cover, and they all fall to with a will. When several dishes are provided, they all take a little of each at once, and it is only a little, so that the plate is often passed back. For service, the Cambodian employs his fingers, not even having the Chinese chopsticks, and using a little bowl, or a Chinese spoon, only to take up the sauce. The repast is usually eaten in silence, and occupies but a few minutes. When it is over, the servant brings a towel and the family wipe their hands; then they rise and go to the water-jar to wash their hands and drink a cup of water. The Cambodian never drinks while he is eating. Such is the meal of ordinary well-off people, as simple as possible, and free from all parade of dishes—no linen, no covers, no knives, no glasses; hardly a cup for each person, and only a family drinking-cup at the water-jar after the meal. Such simplicity should seem to exclude all idea of luxury; but it exists. It is shown in the enrichment of the few dishes that are used. The plates of the poor man are plain; those of the rich are decorated; and they may be of earthenware, of porcelain, of copper, plain or chased, of silver or gold.

Tea is reserved for refreshment between meals, and to be offered in compliment to visitors. Whoever goes into a Cambodian's house is offered tea, and it is a sign of esteem and friendship to take it. A refusal would be misconstrued.

The costume of the Cambodians is peculiar to them. The sampot is their only native garment, for all others that they may wear may be regarded as Siamese or Annamite importations. The manner of wearing it is distinctive to the Khmer race, for the other people of the country wear it differently. The sampot is a strip of cloth about a yard wide by three yards long, generally woven whole, and after patterns that have come down from remote antiquity. With the common people it is cotton, with well-to-do people it is silk, while the rich