Page:Popular Science Monthly Volume 16.djvu/440

 is trifling, though it comes so far. By the opening of direct routes to Asia, our silk comes more quickly, thus diminishing the cost of insurance, of interest on capital, and the risk of change of price while on the way. Our importation was greater last year than ever before, being 1,590,666 pounds. The market for silk goods is little affected by the fluctuation in price of raw silk.

The manufacture of silk thread has reached a point with us that defies competition. The superiority of our spooled silk over the foreign was apparent at the Centennial Exposition, and the Europeans have lost their trade here. At first our sewing silk was made in skeins, but the sewing-machine has revolutionized this branch of the business. Our silk thread did not at first permit the shuttle to pass through the loop that was carried down by the needle; but after many experiments it was found that, by twisting the strands from right to left instead of the other way, it answered the purpose perfectly, and this is machine-twist. The most sedulous care is taken in the manufacture and dyeing. "There is still some difference of opinion in the trade as to whether one ounce of dye to twelve ounces of pure silk, or four to twelve, will give the most serviceable thread. The two kinds are known as thirteen-ounce or pure dye, and sixteen-ounce or standard dye. The standard of purity is closely adhered to, and has helped us to win in the struggle with the foreign thread. Few European threads equal our own in purity. In making colored silk thread, we have reached a high point of delicacy. If we depended for this upon European mills, the color desired would be out of fashion before the thread arrived.

As to the weaving of silk, it is said that we are obliged to import the very best raw silk, owing to the high price of labor here—poor silk requiring great cost in labor. "It costs five times as much to tic a knot here as in France." In the best silk, the thread is not lumpy; but, in weaving the lumpy thread of poor silk, the weaver is constantly busy picking off the imperfections. This is in hand-weaving, which is the prevalent mode in Europe. We use power-looms. In the manufacture of plain black-silk goods we have a system of our own which has grown up in this country. We quote the following method of testing the purity of silks: Ravel out a few threads and pass them through and over the fingers. "In heavily dyed silk the particles of dye will make the threads feel rough and lumpy to the touch. Then by wetting the lint, the goods weighted by dye will be readily distinguished by the dye coming out under pressure. Another simple but effective test of purity is to burn a small quantity of the threads. Pure silk will instantly crisp, leaving only a pure charcoal; heavily dyed silk will smolder, leaving a yellow, greasy ash." One of our most sanguine manufacturers declares his belief that within ten years the dress-silks of this country will bear a higher reputation than those made anywhere else in the world.

In figured dress-silk goods, raw material bears a greater proportion to labor. Our designs are original, changing in color and pattern with the seasons. They are mostly made on power-looms, are firm, serviceable, and very cheap. The Jacquard machines on which they are woven came at first from England and France; but they are now wholly made here, and adapted to our requirements. They are the same in principle but run more smoothly, and can be applied to more intricate patterns, and obtain a higher speed. In making satins and grenadines we have also produced great improvements. Although these goods are so unlike, we were the first to make grenadines with satin stripes, and have added a brocaded pattern that permeates both. We do not yet succeed with silk velvet. Refinishing is a large business here. Heavy calendering-machines of 300 tons' power are used, and the pressure can be varied from five pounds to 60,000. Some goods go through hot rolls and some through cold, and the surface of the roll may convert plain silks into striped ones or into moire antique. The proper pressure gives to brocade definiteness of outline, and to satin its full luster. Damaged goods acquire freshness, old fashions are changed to new, and "hard silk" to soft, by the finishing process. In the matter of umbrellas we are at last achieving success. Some made here, from ferule to handle, have survived the storms of successive years, and are still fit for service.

Spun silk is made from "waste" silk. The sources of waste silk are, cocoons of