Page:Popular Mechanics 1928 01.pdf/158

 



The usual type of bicycle handlebars were not satisfactory to Paul Webber of Bedford, Mass., so he removed them and substituted a steering wheel taken from an old Ford. This, he says, is much better than the customary handlebars.—Arthur F. Egan, Boston.

 

I have just accomplished a difficult feat in the removal of paper from the wall of a room in which the first paper had been varnished after it was put on, about 40 years ago, and then papered over that thickness one to three times. The last thicknesses resisted strongly because the paperhanger apparently had used a little glue in his paste when he hung the paper. Warm water was used, but that was a slow process except where there was but one thickness over the varnished paper. I tried a commercial preparation to soften the outer layers, as well as the varnished layer, but it was even then a very slow process. I finally conceived a plan to soften the paper with steam and this worked to perfection. I took a small tea-kettle and boiled the water on the stove. I filled the kettle about one-quarter full so that the steam would come out of the spout freely. Then I wired the kettle to a one-burner electric stove and switched the current on full. The kettle continued to boil and emit a full stream of steam. I then placed the nose of the spout within $1/2$ in. of the paper and the steam penetrated very readily, permitting the removal of the paper with a putty knife or scraper. The outer layers came off readily, and the varnished paper was softened so that I could work continuously. The electric cord was plugged in the baseboard socket and the wall sockets so that I could reach every part of the wall. As the kettle handle prevented steaming the paper near the ceiling. I added a short piece of rubber tubing at this point, and finished the work in a short time.—Harry E. Gifford, Medford, Mass.

 



Most clocks do not run well unless they are set exactly level and this is sometimes a difficult thing to do, especially if one has no level. Most people raise one side of the clock up by means of a piece of cardboard or bits of paper stuck under the feet, but these often shift. A better method is shown in the drawing. Drive four small round-head screws in the bottom of the block and adjust them so that the clock stands perfectly level. Set the clock on a piece of cloth or felt to prevent the screwheads from marring the mantel top.

¶ Split an inner tube and cut crossways in two pieces. Tack or glue the pieces together, one on top of the other. This mat saves foot ache when ironing. 