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 but, with care, they can be formed from thin strips, bent and twisted into place.

After sanding everything smooth, paint the inboard part of the main rail steel-gray all around. (See Fig. 38.) Paint the inside of the upper rail, the cap, the knee and the top rail white. The outside of the upper rail is painted black, and the cap is white all over, thus making a narrow white bead all around the outside of the ship. Do not paint the outside of the rail just yet. Notice the flare of bulwarks and rails, in Fig. 38.

The next step is to apply the molding. Fig. 44. This is a $1/16$ by $1/8$-in. strip, covering the deck and bulwark joint, and running parallel with the main rail from stem to stern. To insure that they are parallel, use a small block as a spacer between the two when pinning and gluing on the molding, as indicated in Fig. 44, sliding the block along as the molding is fastened. Steam the molding piece for running around the stern. After the glue has dried, cut off and drive in the pins, then take a small triangular or knife file and file grooves right down the center of both molding and main-rail projection, so as to bead them, then sand until the molding and rail look as in the detail, Fig. 44. This is a small point, but it makes a great difference in appearance of the moldings.

The channels are the timbers on the ship's side that carry the ends of the mast shrouds, and they are shown in Figs. 42 and 43. They are $1/8$ in. thick and $5/32$ in. wide. The fore and main channels are 3$7/8$ in. long and the mizzen channels, 2$1/2$ in. long. See also Fig. 46.

The foremast comes 2$7/8$ in. aft of the end of the foc's'le, and the forward ends of the fore channels are $1/8$ in. forward of the center line of the mast. The mainmast is 8$9/16$ in., center to center, from the foremast, and the forward ends of the main channels are $1/8$ in. forward of the center line of the mast. The mizzenmast is 6$5/8$ in., center to center, aft of the main, and the mizzen channels are $1/8$ in. forward of the center line, at their forward ends. Glue and pin these on strongly, using large pins, well driven in, at each end. Fig. 44 is one-fourth the size of the model.

 



Many devices have been made for holding outside cellar doors open and in such a position that the opening will be guarded from both sides. However, in most cases these devices are of such a cumbersome nature that they make no appeal to the busy home owner. The trigger lock, shown in the illustration, is free from the usual objections, and can be easily installed by anyone. Upon the inside of each door, at the points shown, screweyes are placed. through which is passed a $1/2$-in. rod with a lever attached to the outer end. Two holes are drilled into the siding of the house directly above the hinged side of each door, and the trigger locks are completed. When the doors are opened, the levers on the underside are pushed forward so that the sliding rods enter the holes in the siding and lock the doors in a vertical position. When released, the levers will not interfere with the closing of the doors.

