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252 Of the two, St. Paul's is by far the more impressive. Seen from afar its dome-like summit is wonderfully attractive, and it appears to be higher than it is. This conglomerate of boulders and cobblestones was once a Maori fort. The fortifications disappeared long ago, but away up near the cupola I found proofs of former occupation. Scattered about there were many pipi shells, which suggested that the hill once formed part of the ocean's bed, but which really proved that when Maoris held it as a citadel they ate shellfish. Historically, Whangaroa Harbor is one of the most interesting places in New Zealand. Here, in 1809, occurred the massacre of the Boyd's crew, one of the most atrocious deeds ever recorded against the Maoris.

The Boyd, a ship of five hundred tons, called at Whangaroa Harbor for kauri spars while en route with the first direct cargo from Australia to England. On board were seventy white passengers and five Maoris who were working their passage to New Zealand. One of these natives was Tara, son of a Maori chief, or, as one historian says, himself a chief. Giving as his excuse that he was sick, this man refused to work, and the captain flogged him twice. To a Maori this was exceedingly degrading, and only blood would bring satisfaction.

As soon as Tara landed he showed his bruised back to his tribe. Immediately revenge was planned, and obtained by treachery, the opportunity for which came when the captain and some of his crew went ashore to