Page:Peterson Magazine 1869B.pdf/348

 FASHIONS

FOR

OCTOBER.

313

We also give various styles of collars, such as are now under the front points. Elderly ladies can wear either the most worn; also a white waist, trimmed with bows without circular or loose mantelet, with or without the ornamental ends of green satin ribbon ; the bodice is cut rather low in bow at the back, according to taste. f.out, and the sleeves reach to the elbow, where they are BONNETS still retain the high, diadem front, and the finished by a fall of lace. Also four hats of various styles ; thought of frame back of it ; whilst the hair is worn so for no one can be said to be more fashionable than another, high it will be impossible to make the bounets larger, though as now people have the good sense, sometimes, to wear what the milliners are constantly predicting an increase of size. is the most becoming to the individual face. If the cost of a bonnet increases with the size of it, it will LONG DRESSES are in great favor for the house, whilst the soon be beyond the fortunes of most persons to purchase short ones retain an undiminished popularity for the street. them. Elderly ladies usually wear Fanchons, with a fall The former are usually trimmed with ruffles, or one deep of lace at the back. One of the prettiest of this kind which flounce, whilst the latter are also ruffled, ruched, and puffed we have seenis ofblack lace ; the shape, a rounded Fanchon, up as at the back, as has been the fashion for some time. The with a sort of tulle crown at the back, concealed by a deep gored dresses, which were so much worn two or three years fall oflace. In front the lace forms a ruched border with a ago, now look very antiquated in the present full, flowing bow of black satin ribbon on one side, on the other a bunch style of costume ; but they can be utilized by wearing them of beautifully-shaded pansies. MUSLIN APRONS are still very popular. Some of the new as under-skirts, for the upper-skirts, even when no bouffant or puff is made at the back, are very fully gathered all ones have bibs ; others are square, with a goffered frill of muslin edged with lace all round ; above the frill at the round, except in front, and a scant dress cannot by any means be made to look fashionable. But any silk skirt can bottom, and not at the sides, there is a fulling of muslin, be worn as under-skirt with a short, black silk dress, and with bright-colored ribbon underneath it ; a similar fulling the material taken off in the upper part to shorten it can be goes round the top where the apron is gathered into the used to trim it with a flounce or fluting round the bottom. band. The pockets are put on very full, like watch-pockets, An old silk dress can be freshened up very nicely by put- and gathered in at the top with a runner of ribbon with a ting ruffles, plaitings, or flounces of clear white organdy, or bowin the center. THERE IS CERTAINLY A SHADE MORE SIMPLICITY THIS YEAR IN Swiss muslin on it. If the wearer is very slim, this can be extended to the waist, or a thin, white muslin dress can be THE STYLE OF HEAD-DRESSES.-True, in front, the hair is still looped up over an old silk, if it is of a pretty bright color, much raised and elaborately puffed out, but at the back, instead of the enormous chignons which we have so often to look very stylish. Some new-fashioned Garibaldi bodices are made of white spoken against, we now see thick plaits of hair, or long alpaca, with blue satin trimmings laid on to simulate a curls, simply arranged. A new kind of shoe is of a very peculiar shape. Instead sailor's shirt. A wide piece of blue satin is put on at the neck, which is very open, just as sailors' shirts are ; wido of the front part of it coming onto the instep, itis open very nearly to the toe, and finishedoff there with a rosette. Of cuffs of blue satin, and three bands of blue in front, to imicourse, it must be very easy to the feet. Rosettes on shoes tate three folds, complete the trimming. Since sashes are now considered the indispensable adjunct are worn longer and narrower; the broad ones were a misofa mantle, of whatever style, shawls and loose paletots aro take-they are most unbecoming to the foot. altogether discarded, with one exception, however. STOCKINGS are made expressly for shoes with the top of Ladies who possess handsome Chantilly, or even llama the instep and the front of the leg to about six inches above lace shawls, are not willing to part with, or even give up the ankle of an inch wide, with lace on both sides, closely wearing them. Nor need they; with a little ingenuity it is ruched in double plaits. Sometimes they are made of easy to adapt them, like mantelets, to the present fashion. bright-colored silk, with lace run on. The following are various ways of modernizing lace shawls : First, at the back of the shawl, in the middle, form a Watteau pleat, beginning at the neck, and becoming gradually CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. larger toward the lower part, where it disappears. Upon FIG. 1.- DRESS OF WHITE PIQUE, FOR A VERY SMALL BOY.- It the whole length of this large double pleat place at regular distances small bows of black satin ribbon, composed merely is cut square in the neck, and opens over a white plaited of two loops and a cross-piece. At the waist place several bosom ; very short sleeves ; two skirts, which, with the body, wide loops of similar ribbon ; under these sew on a round are trimmed with ruffles of English embroidery. FIG. II.- DRESS FOR A YOUNG GIRL - The under-skirt is of waistband, which is fastened in front, either over or under the front points of the shawl, according to taste. Besides blue and white striped poplin. The upper-skirt is of plain this, the shawl must be taken in a little on either side, just blue poplin, looped up with loops of blue ribbon. The body over the shoulders, and also gathered up at the back of the is made with a square basque and cape. Long, tight, blue sleeves. Straw hat, trimmed with blue ribbons. arms, lengthwise from the waist to the lower edges. FIG. III.- Bor's DRESS OF VIOLET- COLORED CASHMERE -The Secondly, instead of the Watteau pleat, one can make from the neck down to the waist a slanting seam, so as to make trousers are of the Knickerbocker style. The blouse is the shawl fit to the figure, and to form a sort of narrow- braided in black, and belted in at the waist. Straw hat, pointed hood, as in a lace burnous. This hood is trimmed bound with violet velvet, and a violet-colored wing at one with satin bows ; the loops of ribbon at the waist, the seams side. FIG. IV -A LITTLE GIRL'S DRESS OF TAN-COLORED CASHon the shoulders, and the gathers near the arms, are made as in the first arrangement of the shawl. The waistband MERE.--The lower-skirt is trimmed with one flounce, put on may be omitted ; but should it be put on, and especially under a plain bias band ; the body is low ; the upper-skirt should it be fastened over the front points of the shawl, and body are made in one, and trimmed with a ruffle. This these points must be gathered just in front of the arms, from body is high and cut open in front, and the skirt is looped the waist downward, so as to leave the liberty of movement up with a rosette. to the arms, and by decreasing the length of the shawl to > FIG. V.- A LITTLE GIRL'S DRESS OF PEARL-COLORED FOULARD. The under-skirt is quite plain, with the exception of give it the fullness required by modern fashions. Of black embroidered cashmere shawls, trimmed with five cherry-colored bows down the front. The upper-skirt lace or fringe, it is also easy to form fashionable mantles and body are cut in one ; the body is square. The open skirt by forming a full pleat in the middle of the back, and fitting is turned back from the front, and looped up behind with them to the figure with a waistband fastened either over or a wide sash. The trimmings are of cherry-colored ribbon.