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 FASHIONS FOR

SEPTEMBER.

235

The chemisette has become an important part of the less puffed out ; nor is this unbecoming when not exaggertoilet, now that so many bodices are worn open in frontated ; far from it, it sets off a slight figure to great advanor cut square. Among the new models we have seen this tage. When no puff is worn, the sash-bow is made very month the most elegant is the Raphael parure, forming a full, with a large number of coque loops, but no lappets, or stomacher of strips of insertion in lace and embroidery, very short, wide ones. SUGGESTIONS TO STOUT FIGURES.- Stout persons complain with a jabot formed of a wide strip of lace arranged in slightly gathered coils ; a double lace frill forms the collar. of the fashions now in vogue. Double skirts, panniers, and The sleeves are tight, with two strips of embroidery and bouffant sashe, are not for them. Tight casaques disclose one of lace in the middle, and a lace frill at the bottom. the figure too plainly, and shawls, gathered up over the The same style of square chemisette is made with wide arms, increase the appearance of the size. The best drapery strips of Valenciennes lace insertion, divided by garlands of for such ample figures is that which fits the shoulders leaves in embroidery to match with the pattern of the lace. closely, and hangs loosely below, such as shott, loose Two rows of Valenciennes lace form cravat ends in front. sacques without sleeves for young ladies, baschliks and manThe tight sleeves are trimmed with insertion and embroi tillas for those more advanced. Trained skirts give the apdery. A Scudery chemisette, open in the shape of a heart, pearance of less breadth. Short dresses are unbecoming, and formed of strips of Mechlin lace insertion, is trimmed and should be worn to touch the floor. An upper-skirt may round with a deep stand-up border of the same lace. Lace be outlined by a scant ruffle ten inches wide, on which two very narrow ruffles are placed. Folds and other flat trimruffles to correspond. The Elizabethan collars, of which we spoke above, are mings should be used by large ladies. Low-throated dresses becoming very fashionable ; they are called in Paris collars are becoming to short necks. A bonnet without a coronet a la Medicis. or face-trimming is best suited to broad faces, The chignon is no longer indispensable; we may add We only repeat ourselves when we attempt to describe the modes of making and trimming dresses. Never was the that it is given up by a large number of ladies of the best fashion so varied, as will be seen from the great variety of society. The hair is plaited and simply arranged, without the figures in the plates; but we have so often described the help of the least crepe. A great simplicity is about to what we think the prettiest styles, that we have nothing succeed to the elaborate coiffures we have seen too long; new to record till the colder weather, and the return of the curls or plaits will constitute all the ornament of the hair. fashionable world to Paris, will have induced the leading In front, the hair is still raised as high as possible, and the modistes to open their stores of novelties. But the following ears remain free. For quite young girls, two bandeaux are raised off in front, fastened very high at the back, and then hints may be useful in this mid-season. Silk, poplin, foulard, and mohair, may be either straight droop in curls, if long enough. All the rest of the hair is or bias, plaited or gathered. The flounces that require least left loose, in curls, or simply waved. If the hair is very material are bias and gathered scantily, with only one-fourth long, however, it is plaited, as above mentioned. additional fullness. Narrow silk flounces are sometimes raveled half an inch at the edges, others are notched like saw-teeth, or pinked in scallops. Again, there are points or CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. deep scallops, faced with silk, run together on the wrong FIG. 1.-A YOUNG GIRL'S DRES OF VIOLET-COLORED SILK.side and turned. Many of heavy silk are simply hemmed by the machine, and a few are bound with contrasting The skirt is trimmed with two ruffles, vandyked at both the colors. The plaits of flounces are fancifully arranged in top and bottom edge. Confection it. the shape of a skeleton groups ; two or three box-plaits are together, with a plain body of black silk. Violet hat, and white plume. FIG. II.- KNICKERBOCKER SUIT OF BROWN VELVETEEN, triminterval between, on which is a rosette or hollow bow. Others have clusters of plaits all turned one way. Fint med with black braid, for a boy. Glazed sailor hat. FIG. III.- DRESS OF BROWN MOHAIR, FOR A LITTLE GIRL.bands of plaits are lined with thin foundation, the material being hemmed over it loosely, the stitches not showing out- The skirt has three narrow ruffles, body and sleeves plain. side. On many suits are seen two frills a quarter of a yard An upper-dress of gray mohair has a low, square waist, and wide, while on others are five or seven frills a finger deep. { the skirt is looped up and trimmed with brown rosettes. Auother fancy is a wide ruffle above a narrow one. Many Hat of Chinese shape, trimmed with roses. FIG. IV. DRESS OF BLUE AND BLACK STRIPED POPLIN, FOR skirts have four inches of plain space below the frills. Boxplaited ruches of inch-wide satin ribbon are much worn on A YOUNG GIRL. The skirt, body, and sleeves, are quite plain ; alpaca and summer poplins. Others of silk, in double box- the upper-skirt has a low, square waist, is made of plaiu plaits, are two inches wide, raveled or notched at the edges.blue poplin, is a good deal puffed at the back, has long English embroidery, as it is called, is very fashionable for lapels at the side, and is trimmed with black ribbon. Black piques, thick, white muslins, and colored laine or linen ribbon sash. Black straw hat, and blue plume. FIG. V. DRESS OF YELLOW MARSEILLES, FOR A LITTLE GIRL — dresses. This embroidery is only the heavy worked ruffling, edging and insertion, which was so popular a few years ago. The skirt is trimmed with three rows of broad, white cotton A mixture of colors is more allowable now than it was a braid. The loose palefot is made with a cape looped up on year or so ago, and the stronger the contrast the more the shoulders, and is trimmed with braid and a white, wash stylish it is considered. This is, however, a dangerous fringe. White felt hat, and plume. FIG. VI. APRON FOR A GIRL FROM THREE TO FIVE.- The ground for an inexperienced eye, for if the tones of color are not well selected the effect will be uncomfortable, and model is made of white pique, braided with scarlet, the edge even " loud." Thus pearl-gray and pink, gray and blue, being festooned in button-hole stitch, with scarlet wool. black and scarlet, buff and blue, yellow and black, etc., etc. Brown holland might also be used, and black braid substituted for scarlet. are all fashionable combinations. FIG. VII -FROCK FOR A GIRL FROM FOUR TO SIX.- This frock Added to this, lace trimmings are often worn. Thus on the pearl-gray and pink, black lace is a rich adjunct ; and is made of white pique ; the over-skirt, waistband, and epanon the buff and blue, or on the gray and blue, white lace lets of buff pique. The under-skirt is braided with fine black mohair braid, and the edge of the upper-skirt is butwould look well. It is evident that a more ample and flowing style of dress ton-holed, according to illustration, with fine black wool. than that worn of late years, is now deemed indispensable The top of the bodice and the edge of under-skirt are berdered with narrow white embroidery. The frock fastens at to all who would lay any claim to elegance. The dress, fully gathered at the back, must be more or the back with four pearl buttons.