Page:Peterson Magazine 1869A.pdf/85

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FASHIONS

FOR JANUARY.

shell combs, the heading of which, edged with small balls, Red may be worn with advantage by blondes ; but only brunettes should venture on yellow. goes round the chignon. Very few ornaments will be worn this winter for ball or Persons who prefer very simple toilets, without bows or evening coiffure, the hair itself forms all the beauty of the any looping up, more willingly wear an under-skirt just head-dress. The flowers or jewels will be placed above the touching the ground, and a second skirt, shorter from twelve to sixteen inches, but not looped up. forehead as a diadem. Almost all dresses are made with double skirts, with a We also give an evening head-dress, made of satin ribbon ornamented with bows, with wide strings tied in front, more or less pronounced tournure. Both skirts are not adapted to a head-dress composed of small puffed bandeaux always of the same material ; the under one is often striped, upon the forehead, and of frizzled curls proceeding from the while the upper one is plain. top of the head and mixed with loops of ribbon, the ends of FLOUNCES AND RUCHES are the trimming preferred. Fashion, which fall upon the chignon. Also a head-dress for the which had given them up for some time, now shows them opera, composed of a wide strip of guipure insertion orna- more favor than ever. mented with narrow velvet ribbon put on plain, divided THE MARIE ANTOINETTE is every day gaining in popularity. into two pieces of equal length, which proceed from the This is exceedingly becoming to a well-shaped arm ; for a forehead, and are crossed over the chignon and fastened in thin arm, the sleeve puffed from the shoulder to the wrist front with small bunches of flowers. is more suitable. With low bodices cut square, or open in the heart-shape In addition to the above we also give some of the new style collars. It will be seen that they are much larger in front, the fashion of necklaces has come in again. Handthan those lately worn, and not fitting so close in the neck. some necklaces are made of precious stones set within small Another style of collar, called marins or matelots, can be made gold medallions. Many are also made of amber beads, garto match any and every dress. They are large collars of nets, or jets ; for jet, though discarded from the trimming fine linen, and the points touch the shoulders. They are of dresses, is still much worn for demi-toilet ; jewels, medalbordered either with a thread or a hem of color ; and a lions, and crosses, are also much worn suspended from black eravat with a large bow, composed of either satin or fou- velvet ; the Chanoinesse necklace has a cross also of velvet. lard, is worn carelessly beneath the collar. These novelties It can be worn as well with high dresses as with low ones. are very stylish; we have so long been accustomed to the THE FASHIONS FOR SACQUES, CLOAKS, ETC., is so varied that narrow, hard, white rim round the throat, which certainly it is impossible to describe them. In addition, however, to has neatness to recommend it ; but, after all, a change is the winter mantelet already illustrated, we give a descrippleasant, and variety is charming. tion of another very easily made, and called the Mac FurAll evening dresses, and what may be termed fete toilettes, lane. Fancy a paletot, ample and loose, buttoned all down will be extremely costly this season, while all short morn- the front, without sleeves, but with slits only for the arms, ing costumes will be the reverse-as simple as it is possible a pelerine begins on either side, at the seams of the shoulto make them. ders and is continued in front, thus forming two streaming The elegantes, for example, are now rarely to be seen on lapels; at the back there is no pelerine, but a round hood, foot, except in costumes made either of cloth or reps. The gathered in by means of a ribbon. BONNETS are as numerous in form as the sacques, and as leaders of fashion wear costumes composed thus : A petticoat trimmed according to the taste of the wearer, either difficult to do justice to on paper. The newest fanchon is with one deep flounce, or with several narrow flounces, or called Mercedes, and it seems to become every one who tries with numerous rows of braid ; the polonaise or redingote is it on- blondes, brunettes, young married women, as well male of the same material as the dress, is trimmed in nc- as those of more mature age. It is made of black velvet cordance with the petticoat, and is looped up on the hips, puffings. A torsade or twist of velvet ornaments the front of This is all. The sleeves are very close fitting, and the polo- the bonnet, whilst the top is trimmed with black lace, which naise is fastened straight down the front. A wide gros grain ( terminates in lappets at the back. At the side there is a pouf waistband; and if the weather is cold, a small paletot to of black feathers, with a yellow aigrette ; wide black velvet match, are added. strings. But to describe a bonnet requires more than GIMPS, with jet beads and bugles intermixed, have almost words ; it should always be seen to be realized. completely disappeared ; they are replaced by dead-looking gimps, and by trimmings which match the dress. Bands of CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. fur are likewise daily becoming very popular trimmings. FIG. 1.- DRESS FOR A GIRL.-The under-dress is of garnetThe Bordeaux or claret color is very popular, and the trimmings consist either of the same material-a flounco colored merino, made high in the neck, and trimmed with headed by a flat ruche- or of bows of black gros grain. { velvet of the same color. Tho upper-dress is of garnetWhen the toilet is quite neglige, no panier is worn, but the colored silk, trimmed with velvet, buttoning diagonally, cut skirt is looped up at the sides simply a la Camargo. For low and square in the neck, and with long sleeves. FIG. II.- DRESS OF GRAY CASHMERE FOR A LITTLE GIRL.-dressy toilets, on the contrary, a panier is always added, It has but one skirt, but that is elaborately trimmed with and underneath the panier a large bow. BOWS OF RIBBON, and of the same material as the dress, blue velvet. Cape and sleeves also trimmed with blue velvet. F10. III - COSTUME FOR A Bor. -The trousers and jacket are now lavished on costumes and toilets of all descriptions, and they are made in every imaginable form. Round bows, are of mulberry-colored cloth, and the vest of a lighter bows with three loops, fan-shaped bows, simple bows, etc., shade of the same color. FIG. IV.- DRESS of BLUE VELVETEEN FOR A YOUNG GIRLetc., are all worn. Besides ornamenting the skirt, they are now frequently to be seen adorning the armholes. When The petticoat is made of blue and black striped cashmere. distributed with taste, they form an exceedingly graceful The dress and paletot are trimmed with gray gimp and chinchilla fur. Gray felt hat, trimmed with chinchilla and trimming. FOR CLOTH COSTUMES, olive, green, and dark blue, are the a blue aigrette. FIG. V.- WALKING-SUIT FOR A YOUNG LADY.- The petticoat, fashionable colors, and dark garnet is sometimes worn. Green and blue plaid cashmere, and flannels, are also very which has a deep box-plaited flounce, is of light claretcolored silk. The black silk over-skirt opens at the back popular. RED, in all its various shades, is very much worn in the and ties low down ; it is ornamented with a narrow gimp fringe and gimp ornaments. The small velvet jacket is house, as well as all shades of yellow, the aurora, which is very light to the bright marigold, dark brown nasturtium. trimmed with the same.