Page:Peterson's Magazine 1867 b.pdf/79

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FASHIONS

FOR JULY.

FIG. V.- EVENING DRESS OF WHITE TULLE, trimmed with it. In the latter case, it is suitable only for young ladies, ruches and bows of blue silk. or, at any rate, only for slight, youthful figures. The paleFIG. VI.- EVENING DRESS OF GOLD-COLORED SATIN, with a tot, ofwhatever shape it may be, has very rarely a straight basque and body; trimmings of black fancy cords and tas- edge, it is cut out in round scallops, pointed vandykes, sels. square tabs, clover-leaves, and other more or less eccentric FIG. VII.- CARRIAGE DRESS OF FAWN-COLORED SILK.- Pale- patterns. Sometimes it is curved in, in front and at the tot of the same material, with Hungarian sleeves, and back, and lengthened on either side in a long peplum trimmed with bias bands of brown silk and large buttons. basque slit open in the middle. The trimming of the paleFIGS. VIII. and IX.-BRETON PALETOTS.-These paletots are tot corresponds to that of the dress. Narrow crimped made of blue cashmere or flannel ; about the pockets, fringes, black guipure lace borders, plain or embroidered sleeves, etc., are the figures of the Breton peasants em- silk braid, and passementerie ornaments are much used. broidered in the gayest colors on white cloth. The other The latter are often imitated by ornaments worked in parts of the sacques are also embroidered in gay colors. woolen or silk braid, and forming circles, trefoils, and Two rows of silver coin buttons decorate the upper part of other patterns, to which beads are often added. Woolen the front. We have seen these jackets also in white cloth, braid is quite sufficient for trimming a paletot of fancy woolen material which does not require expensive or elewhich is prettier for the house than the blue cloth. GENERAL REMARKS.-In-door toilets are still made either gant ornaments. Most of the paletots have wide sleeves, in the redingote or the empire shape, without pleats, or and these wide sleeves affect many forms--the Hungarian, with only one large pleat behind. Sashes are much worn ; the Polish, and the " Judge" sleeve, which is simply the they are very wide, and fastened very low down These old wide pagoda shape ; there is the Polonaise sleeve, which sashes are worn even with walking-dresses, under a paletot. is straight and open to the top of the arm ; the Venetian SOME UNDER SKIRTS are trimmed with very narrow sleeve, which is only open as far as the elbow ; and, lastly, flounces, put on with a heading, pinked out and gathered. } the Galilee sleeve. This last is decidedly the prettiest; it This is an old fashion which comes back to us again. Deep is not separate from the paletot, but forms a part of it, and pleated flounces have been so much worn during the win- is, in fact, only a simulated sleeve. It describes a point at ter that ladies are already tired of them. Small gathers the bottom, and terminates with a tassel ; it opens at the are now occasionally to be seen on the hips, and these cuff, and the side is trimmed either with a row of buttons gathers are sewn very close together at the back. Small or jet embroidery. The front of the Galilee paletot is quite gores are inserted into the lower part of the skirt to widen straight, the back describes a point ; it is made in black it. poult de soie, in cashmere, and in fancy cloth. Generally The following is a pretty manner of trimming a skirt : speaking the wide, hanging sleeves are more becoming Take a wide, cross-cut band of silk, and make it describe when made of soft materials than when taffetas is used for five folds or pleats ; arrange it in front of the skirt as a them, however rich in substance it may be. semicircle, carrying it up to the hips like the basque AfriBONNETS Continue to be made of innumerable shapes. caine ; at the back this cross-cut band has no pleats, but is The latest style is called the " Josephine." Imagine alarge, arranged to the effect of a sash thrown over the skirt a bonnet with a flat curtain, a large drawn front, and the l'orientale, and tied at the back in two ends, which termi- sides rounded off, with no strings of any description whatnate either with floss silk fringe or feathers. This style of eyer, and you have the " Josephine" bonnet. Bronze leaves sash is likewise occasionally tied at the side, and then it are very general on bonnets, likewise gold fringes and takes up some of the folds of the skirt, which it has the gold beads. The lappets, which are now used for strings, effect of looping up. This style looks well in either white are arranged in a peculiar manner. They no longer pas silk or gray poplin. If there is a bow only on one side, a round the back of the bonnet, but are fastened at each sido silk pocket, in the form of an alms-bag, is added at the of it, forming three pleats, and terminating with either other. Moire waistbands, likewise bands of a color con- feather or silver fringe ; they are now usually made of trasting with the dress, are very fashionable. Thus, with tulle. Black crin, lined with pink silk, and trimmed at a black dress, either a red or blue moire sash will be worn, the side with a rose, and another rose under the chin, and reins or guides to match will be added at the back. forms one of the prettiest neglige bonnets it is possible to CHINA CREPE, which has not been worn for so long, is conceive. Demi-Saison bonnets made of crepe are more again fashionable, it falls in such beautiful soft folds over popular than straw ones at the present moment. Funchons the small crinolines now worn. Some ladies cut up old of blue crepe, with small white field-daisies arranged careChina crepe shawls into peplums with large sleeves. lessly, are great favorites. These bonnets are tied with WIDE SLEEVES are gradually gaining favor, but they narrow crepe strings, bordered with a ruche of silk or ribusually have a close sleeve of the same material under- bon about half an inch wide. No bow is worn under the neath. The Hungarian sleeve is very popular. It is chin now, it is replaced with either a small bouquet or a straight and open to the top of the arm, but is slashed brooch. together again with silk cord. SMALL LACE JACKETS, of the Greek or Spanish form, are very much worn over low-necked dresses. White, black, CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. and colored cashmere jackets, dotted over with beads, are FIG. 1.- DRESS FOR A YOUNG LADY.-The petticoat and very much worn ; they are especially nice for wearing over peplum paletot are of white mohair, trimmed with black thin bodies on cool days. SASH RIBBONS are of the most beautiful description ; some velvet. The upper skirt, which is cat out in large vanof the black ones are exquisitely ornamented with wild dykes and trimmed with velvet, is of black-and-white and field-flowers. striped mohair. Black hat and green veil. FIG. II.- DRESS OF BLUE CHALE, FOR A LITTLE GIRL.- The BLACK CASHMERE PALETOTS, entirely embroidered with jet beads, are as much the fashion now as they were last upper skirt is of gray chale, trimmed with black braid. autumn. It is, par excellence, the demi-saison garment. FIG. III - SKIRT OF MAIZE-COLORED FOULARD SILK, trimThe new toilets we see are, for the most part, composed of med with bands of crimson silk, piped with black. White the dress and paletot alike. The paletot is very short ; it Garibaldi body. Straw hat, trimmed with a black plume is made, however, of different shapes ; sometimes it is and crimson rosette. straight and loose, sometimes half fitting, and sometimes FIG. IV. DRESS OF GRAY GAUZE, trimmed with green silk quite tight to the figure, and worn with a waistband over and ribbons, for a young girl.