Page:Peterson's Magazine 1862.pdf/432

 FASHIONS FOR MAY. . www having a point both at the back and in front, and with two has its large cape drawn up behind with two rosettes, a long black velvet tabs, about a quarter of a yard in width, shape which will be fashionable in the summer as a seadepending down each side, widening toward the ends, side wrap, or for the cool evenings in the country. which are rounded. The waistband, as well as the tabs, are braided with very narrow white silk braid. FASHIONS FOR MOURNING. THE SKIRTS OF DRESSES are still gored so as to be quite wide at the bottom, but narrow at the waist. FOR DEEP MOURNING, bombazine is considered the most FOR WALKING DRESSES the skirts are made quite plain, suitable material, though delaine is very much worn, as or with only a little trimming up the sides or front ; but less expensive. For summer wear there are innumerable silks are usually ruffled, except they be of very good materials of the barege family ; but these must all be madə quality, when they are made plain. over black. Black alpaca is a most suitable article for BODIES OF DRESSES are usually made high, buttoning down mourning, except for the very deepest kind of black, when the front ; but, as the season advances, low bodies and capes, its glossiness is objectionable. But nothing can supply its or Raphael bodies (that is, bodies cut square in the neck), place as a traveling-dress, or a " knock-about" dress, where will be worn. there is likely to be much dust, as it throws it off so easily. Many of the newest walking dresses have sleeves shaped For a lighter kind of mourning, plain black silks can be to the elbow; they are slit up to a short distance at the worn with propriety ; but they should be of the kind styled lower part, and the ends are rounded. But sleeves are "dead black," that is, without any gloss. Then come the made in all styles, according to the fancy ofthe wearer. different kinds of purples, grays, lilacs, and mixtures of Among the new capes, etc., the French fichu is a pretty black and white. Or black may be trimmed with purple, variety of those useful articles which have lately been so white, or gray ; or these colors may have trimmings of prevalent. It is made of clear muslin laid in box plaits, § black, according to the relationship of the person, or the joined up over the shoulders, and coming down to a point length of time the mourning has been worn. For deep both before and behind. It is finished at the neck with mourning, such as for a parent, husband, or any other near two rows of narrow lace, having a narrow black velvet in relative, the trimmings should be of crape only, and but between: and braces of black velvet, wide at the shoulders, little of even that. It is totally inadmissible to have much but narrowing toward the waist, are laid on its outer edge. trimming in " deep black." The plainer the dress is, the At the back there is a bow of black velvet without ends, more suitable. Black collars and sleeves are indispensable and in the front one with ends. In making this fichu care in such mourning, as well as black crape bonnet and veil. must be taken that it shall fit the person for whom it is in- But when the relative is not so near, or when the deeper tended, and it is especially necessary that the velvet braces mourning has been laid aside, thin, plain white collars and sleeves are permitted, more trimming can be worn on the should fit the figure. THE MOST FAVORITE CAP of the season is formed of a round dress, the skirt may be ruffled or otherwise trimmed, and crown, set into a narrow band, which just encircles the purple or white flowers worn in the face of the bonnet. head. This band is trimmed in various ways, sometimes With this lighter kind of mourning, a silk coat or sacque with quillings of blonde, sometimes with bows of ribbon, may be worn, or even a black shawl with a colored border, and sometimes with the two intermingled, One of the provided the colors are not too gay. As the season advances, prettiest that we have seen in this style has its crown of white straw bonnets may be worn, trimmed with black, or white tulle, a full double quilling of the same set on all even with white or purple, with purple pansies or violets round, the band being pointed over the front, just in the in the face; but if the mourning is deeper, the bonnet should middle of the forehead ; two long lappets of the same, edged be of black straw, trimmed with crape or ribbon. with a quilling of narrow tulle set on the front of the cap, and thrown back over the crown to hang down over the CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. shoulders ; and on the point in front a large rose, with a FIG. 1.- DRESS OF A GRAY FIGURED WOOLEN MATERIAL FOR number of little sprays turned toward the back, the rose resting on the forehead, and the sprays turning backward A LITTLE GIRL.- It is trimmed with ruches of gray silk. FIG. II.- RAPHAEL BODIED FROCK OF BLUE POPLIN, FOR A over the lappets. Another extremely pretty and simple head-dress is made by covering a band with clusters of LITTTE BOY THREE OR FOUR YEARS OF AGE.- The dress is bows, not too regular, but rather varied in form, and fasten- trimmed with black velvet. ing it behind with a lace or tulle lappet. FIG. III.- DRESS OF PEARL-COLORED PIQUE, for a girl of THE SHORT SACQUE, as we stated in our last number, will twelve or fourteen years of age. GENERAL REMARKS.-A very pretty dress, of white cashbe the greatest novelty ofthe season ; but this needs no description, as there was a design in the April number ofthe mere, has just been made for a little girl. Round the lower article. Scarf mantillas, trimmed with narrow ruffles, will part of the skirt there are three bands of blue cashmere. be worn also this spring. A Zouave jacket, of white cashmere, piped with blue, and BONNETS are very much of the shape which have been trimmed round with a small ruche of white ribbon, is worn worn during the past season, but some of them have the with the dress, and a sash, piped with blue, completes the fronts very much exaggerated in size, and filled with trim- costume. We have seen a beautiful dress of poplin, checquered in ming. A lady of good taste always adapts her bonnet to her style of face ; and the very large bonnets are not worn gray and black, which was made for a little boy of about by the best dressed people. The flowers are not worn as four years of age. The corsage is covered by a loose jacket, much in the middle ofthe bonnet as heretofore, but a little and the jacket, as well as the skirt of the dress, is trimmed on one side. with rows of cherry-colored velvet and passementerie. ColONE OF THE MOST STRIKING NOVELTIES of the season is the lar and sleeves of lawn. Trousers ornamented with needlecloak of scarlet cloth, or flannel, now best known as the work insertion and narrow tucks, and edged with a narrow Gipsy Cloak. This is, in fact, the circular shape, not now fluting of nansouk. A hat ofgray felt, turned up with cut either on the cross or in the width of the cloth, but with black velvet, and trimmed with a white ostrich feather, is a join down the back, and the simple hood drawn up all worn with this dress. round. The other cloak of the season, sometimes called For out-door juvenile costume basquines, demi-tight, and the Galway, and sometimes the Colleen Bawn, is also now paletots, are still in favor. In general, paletots have the fashionable, made in scarlet cloth, or flannel. This cloak preference for little boys. 426