Page:Peterson's Magazine 1862.pdf/190

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FASHIONS

FOR FEBRUARY.

FIG. IX.- A BONNET OF DRAB VELVET, from Mrs. Cripps, 312 Canal street, New York, laid on the foundation plain , top finished by a full bow and ends of velvet, with a blue French feather falling from the inside. Face trimming full bow and ends of black velvet, edged with white blonde, full blue velvet flowers intermingled with pink moss rosebuds and small feathers. Broad white strings striped with drab and blue ; at the sides of the face black velvet bands, edged with black and white blonde. FIG. X.-A RICH BLACK VELVET BONNET, also from Mrs. Cripps, 312 Canal street, New York, laid on the foundation plain, drawn in plaits at the back of the crown and finished by a full bow of black. An elegant bird of Paradise ornaments the right side, the rich golden plumage shading into white. The face trimmings consist of an orange velvet lily, with a cluster of purple grapes on the right side, and loops of black velvet intermingled with small brown velvet flowers. Broad orange-colored strings. GENERAL REMARKS.- There is still no change in the make of dresses. The corsages of those destined for out-door costume are high, and may be either pointed or straight at the waist; this depending on the taste of the wearer. In sleeves the variety of form is very great. Some are slit up the whole length of the arm, and edged with plaitings or bands, or with any trimming corresponding with that on the rest of the dress. In others the slit extends only a few inches in length, and the sleeves are rounded at the ends ; the same trimming which passes round the edge is placed over the seam. Sleeves full at the arm-hole, close at the wrist, and with cuffs, retain their wonted favor ; and we may enumerate the following as among the most popular forms : 1st. Sleeves demi-wide and with revers, but without fullness at the arm-hole. 2nd. Wide flowing sleeves, not very long, set in with large plaits fixed by bows of ribbon or lace. 3rd. Sleeves of narrow width, shaped to the elbow, and with revers. 4th. Lastly may be mentioned sleeves demi-wide, without revers, and finished at the ends with a plisse, or any trimming in harmony with that employed for the skirt of the dress. Among many very pretty out-door costumes worn during the present season, is one consisting of brown poplin, trimmed round the lower part of the skirt with a band of black velvet; up the front is a row of black velvet buttons and bands of black velvet. With this dress is worn a shawl of black embroidered cashmere, trimmed with a deep fall of lace headed by a ruche of black silk. The bonnet, composed of black velvet and black spotted tulle, was trimmed with red flowers, and the strings were of black velvet. An elegant out-door dress consists of blue silk, having the edge of the skirt trimmed with a plaiting about six or seven inches broad ; the corsage high and trimmed with plaitings, and the sleeves shaped to the elbow and with revers. A pardessus of black silk, wadded, and having a pelerine of black guipure, has been worn with the dress just mentioned. The bonnet is formed of a combination of blue silk and velvet, and trimmed with blue bells in velvet. A good many dresses have capes or pelerines. In one of plain green silk, the collar, rounded and bordered with a green frill, is continued in a graceful lapel, cut at the edge and bordered with the same small frill and a row of Valenciennes. ZOUAVE JACKETS in all their varieties continue to be worn. Some are very richly ornamented with colored braid, and of these we noticed a very original one with bright red braid, jet beads, and a fringe of jet and red tassels. With these are worn those chemisettes of embroidered cashmere, which divided favor with muslin ones during the past summer, and will altogether replace them now. UNDER-SLEEVES of worked muslin, with collars to match, are prettily trimmed with bows of blue ribbon and black velvet. One of the new Zouave chemisettes, or vests, con-

sisting of nansouk, is ornamented with narrow tucks and a small plaited frill edged with Valenciennes. The sleeves are wide enough at the ends to allow the hand to pass through, and are finished by a turned-up frill. BALMORAL PETTICOATS are universally worn, particularly in wet or muddy weather when it is necessary to loop up the dress. They are made of a variety of materials : some ofthe prettiest consisting ofgray flannel, braided with red or black braid, or having a band of black velvet around the bottom. A very beautiful one has a rich pattern in gold braid on a black silk or alpaca. SHAWLS made of cloth, embroidered and wadded, are very much worn. Some have a rich fall of lace at the edge. CLOAKS. As trimmings for dresses and cloaks a great many crochet ornaments mixed with velvet are now made. The " Louise" pardessus, composed of black velvet, has a pelerine of guipure lace. The front, from top to bottom, is ornamented with rich embroidery; and the sleeves, which are shaped to the elbow, have embroidered revers. A cloak, named the Henrietta," in fancy cloth, is made with three plaits at the back, each fixed by a large button. The sleeves are very long, slashed, and flowing, and have three plaits at the shoulder fixed by buttons. FUR is a favorite trimming for mantles, and is much used for Zouave jackets. We have seen some of gray cloth, with a border of Chinchilla ; one of maroon, bordered with black scal-skin; and black, edged with gray. BONNETS.-Many of the most fashionable bonnets have the fronts less pointed than those which have lately been worn. They are now rather straight above the forehead, and wide at the ears. The combination of black and white for bonnets has lost none of its wonted favor. Bonnets of velvet are trimmed with lace and blonde, feathers or flowers. Under the brim, full trimmings are preferred. HEAD-DRESSES .- A stylish and elegant head-dress is formed of a diadem of black velvet, worked with stars in steel and jet. At the right side a small black feather and a bunch of roses, and a long white feather reaching round the other part of the head-dress. A most stylish head-dress is formed of Vesuve chrysanthemums, with clusters of black fruit. It is slightly raised in front, and terminated in a point at the back. DRESS CAPS are composed of white and black lace, mixed with ribbons and flowers ; and most young married ladies wear a white coiffure, however beautiful and luxuriant their hair. It is quite the fashion in full dress. STEEL AND JET are much employed in ornamenting coiffures.

CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. FIG. I.-A LITTLE GIRL'S DRESS OF BLUE POPLIN.- The front is ornamented with bands of black velvet and rows of black braid. The neck of the dress, the lappels, and the sleeves, are all trimmed to correspond with the front of the dress. FIG. IL - DRESS OF GRAY MERINO FOR A LITTLE GIRL -At the bottom of the dress is a broad band of crimson merino. This is ornamented with a row of gray braiding. Above this is a row of crimson braiding. The sleeves, berthe, and waistband are all bound with crimson merino and braided in crimson braid on the gray. FIG. III.- DRESS FOR A LITTLE BOY.-The pants, vest, and jacket are of fawn-colored cloth braided in black. Gay striped stockings. Black cloth cap. FIG. IV.- CLOAK FOR A LITTLE GIRL.-This cloak is a loose sacque made with a French coat sleeve, with a deep quilted cuff. A crochet ornament is on the shoulder. Black velvet hat with a long plume. FIG. V. A LITTLE BOY'S DRESS of any dark blue cashmere, trimmed with black velvet.