Page:Peterson's Magazine 1843, Volume III.pdf/5

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THE LADY'S

a bonnet of a dark maroon velvet, the crown being a perfect round, and trimmed with small knots, with long drooping ends of striped terry velvet ribbon. Another walking pelisse is of rich shot Pekin silk, green and white, the front of the jupe handsomely ornamented with a vandyked trimming of open net work passementerie, attached here and there with buttons of pale green velvet ; high corsage, forming a point in the front, and trimmed with vandykes to match those on the skirt ; the waist a perfect point ; the sleeves very tight, with very deep jockeys reaching nearly to the elbow, decorated with fancy vandykes round the edge ; manchettes of the same. With this pelisse may be worn a bonnet of pale pink velours épinglé; the centre of the crown decorated with a roseatte of shaded pink, and white taffetas ribbon, from which stream two long ends ; a beautiful shaded coq plume is placed so as to heighten the appearance of the left side of the crown ; brides of blonde, interspersed with half wreaths of the American daisy. In Paris, a pelisse—in form a mixture of the paletot and pelissehas appeared. It falls in large folds and is attached round the waist. The beauty of this pelisse consists in its not adding to the size of the tournure. Those in velvet, embroidered down the seams with soutache are by far the prettiest ; the end of the jupon descending within a foot of the ground, and opening up each side ; a pelerine is attached to this pelisse, opening also upon each arm, so as to allow of the sleeve passing. CLOAKS. For cloaks, velvet is the favorite material -though satin will be worn, embroidered in fine soutache, or braid of different shades, which gives the embroidery a raised appearance. Fur trimmings will be worn. A very beautiful cloak is made of velvet oreille d'ours or bear's ear color, the whole of the manteau being encircled with a rich embroidery of the same color but of different shades, and edged with a broad fringe in points of guipure. A small twisted rouleau manteau of myrtle green velvet is worn over a dress of French grey popelin, the skirt made very full and long, and trimmed round with a double volant of very deep silk fringe. The manteau is edged with a stamped arabesque border, encircling the entire mantle, collar and arm-holes ; the collar and bottom part of this elegant cloak being finished with a broad bouillon fringe, just surmounting the top volant of fringe on the dress. With this mantle is worn a bonnet of black velvet, edged with pink plush, and trimmed with pink ribbon, and a magnificent ostrich plume, curled at the tip and just touching the shoulder ; the interior of the brim decorated with a plain bias of pink tulle, surrounding the face, and interspersed at the sides with small pink branches of the almond tree. The CARDINALS have been elongated, and changed into cloaks, being called in this state, cardinal mantles. A very pretty style of these is made in violet colored velvet, embroidered à colonnes, and edged all round with a fall

of rich black guipure lace, headed with a rûche of violet satin ; small round collar of velvet, attached in front with a splendid silk cord and tassel. WALKING DRESSES. -Satins, Scotch velvets, and dark plaid tartans, either of silk or cachemire, are the most favorite materials. Skirts are made longer and wider than ever, with three rows of tucks or flounces. The depth of the waists remains unaltered. The sleeves Louis XIV., and à la Richelieu retain their popularity. Pearls and French grey are, perhaps, the most fashionable colors. For styles we have one of this color with an open skirt trimmed on each side with a fringe of the same color, the centre breadth being bouillonnée across the whole length of the skirt, as well as the front of the corsage, the other part being tight and high, opening, however, in a point, so as to admit of the fullings : the sleeves plain, over which is worn a double pelerine cardinal, trimmed all round with a puffing ofthe same, and edged with a fringe. Another very beautiful walking dress is of fawn colored moire, the skirt ample, and ornamented with four rows of bouillonnée fringe, of a moderate width, and of the same shade and color as the dress ; the body and sleeves perfectly plain. One of the new splendid cachemire scarfs is worn with this dress, of a beautiful cerulean blue. Bonnet of white velours épinglé, the brim ornamented with folds of areophane, the interior with small puffings or loops of pale pink ribbon. The crown of the bonnet decorated with three magnificent white marabouts, the under one being placed so as to fall rather low on the right side. And we have another style in Ottoman satin beautifully shaded, and made perfectly plain, but full and long in the skirt. Cardinal of rich black velvet, magnificently decorated and embroidered with soutache, à la militaire ; round collar. Bonnet of purple velvet, decorated on the right side with four small neige plumes nuée gold color, the interior ornamented with small puffs of shaded ribbon of the same color as the feathers. BONNETS.-We have already given several styles of bonnets, in the descriptions of the preceding costumes. Generally the velvet bonnets incline over the face, are low at the ears, and of rather a close shape. Young persons look best in velours épinglé, the form low- say, decorated with a wreath of eight coques of velvet encircling the crown, or are in white gros ď d ' Afrique, having a wreath of small pink Marguerites. The bonnet Marquise, and the bonnet of velvet Marguerite are the two richest styles. The first is composed of apple green velvet, and lined with white velvet, the form slightly inclining over the face, and decorated in the interior with very small white marabouts, the exterior being ornamented with two branches of the Indian currant bush, and green marabouts ; the other of Marguerite velvet, being trimmed with a drooping style of feather, composed of marabouts, attached with a daisy flower,