Page:Peterson's Magazine 1842, Volume I.pdf/45

34 We quote the following as the other most approved fashions for the month.

CLOAKS.—A beautiful dress manteau has just been invented; it is all embroidered au crochet, in a mixture of silk and gold, giving it a most charming and oriental effect, and is mostly on a ground of black cashmere, or ponceau, or white. This manteau is much worn for the theatre or balls; also the capuchins, lined with plush and trimmed with swans-down, and those pretty little coquettish short cloaks in velvet, trimmed with ermine. The bournouss is still, and we have no doubt will continue a great favorite during the rest of the winter. A pretty pattern in cashmere gris, lined with a deep red satin; is formed à double col, trimmed round with a net-work of red cord; the under one carré, descending very low, the upper one shorter, and rounded in the front; these two to be attached to a large plain piece, fitting tight to the shoulders, and forming a point in the front from the waist upward, and fastened on the chest by brandebourgs, in the same color as the net-work round the edge of the cloak. Another pattern may be in green velvet, doublé with white satin, gaged around into the form of the shoulders, and bordered with ermine.

CAPS.— These are mostly of blonde; long lappets and barbes are again much in vogue. There is the bonnet à la Peuthieure à la Marquise, and l'œil-debœuf. A great many also in the Peruvian and Brazilian style, all feathers and wheat ears, in gold or silver; others, in a more simple style, are called Bonnets du Gasmac, in velvet, intermixed with Valenciennes, or, what is still more fashionable, four rows of point d' Angleterre, separated in the middle by a row of coques in violet-colored velvet, each coque having in the centre a small tiny gold buckle, the ends of the back fraugés silk and gold; this last coiffeur is named une Ninette.

BONNETS.-Capotes are still all the rage ; they are mostly in shaded velvets, with elegant bouquets of flowers in velvet, giving them a simple and charming effect. There are some, however, made in satin ; these are mostly trimmed with rûches of blonde round the interior of the brim, and which is considered very becoming to the face. Hats in velvet are generally trimmed on the outside with feathers, often with but one, very long, and curled in a spiral form, or flat, the tips shaded in another color. The shape of the bonnet is mostly low on the cheek, but turning back a little toward the nape of the neck, gives it a graceful appearance.

BALL DRESSES .-There is now just invented a new style of wreath, for a ball costume; it is composed of clematris in velvet, with a mixture of bouquets of pearls; then there are des échelles in petites roses pompons, formed in demi-courrones, and placed on each side of the jupon, gradually diminishing towards the waist. This style of trimming when placed on a robe of tartalane has a very pleasing effect. We may also quote another, which is truly graceful, composed of very pale blue taffetas, over which is worn three jupes of illusion tulle, the under jupe open in front, and rattachée on each side in the form of a drapery by three bows of broad ribbon, the ends of which are fringed with pearls, the ends of the first bow floating to the bottom of the robe, the others diminishing gradually upwards; the corsage drapés ; the sleeves very small and short, trimmed in the same style with ribbon.

DINNER DRESS of velours épinglé, sky blue, trimmed α paus renversées in lace; corsage, tight, very open, en cœur, and à point; tight long sleeves, trimmed with lace appliquée, in the form of mancherons (which, when literally interpreted, means plough-handles;) manchettes and berthe of the same. In front of the corsage, and disposed in the form of V, are two rows of noœuds attached to the ribbon, which is laid flat round the top of the berthe, a row of the same lace falling on each side of the stomacher to the point of the waist.

SCARFS.—There is a pretty style of scarf just invented, in velvet, very simple, but excessively commodious for winter, a small collar, which preserves the neck from cold, and attaches the scarf more closely over the chest. Then we have the full scarfs in velvet, more or less embellished, but always wadded, lined with satin and piquées. The most distinguished are generally doubléed with the same color, and without any trimmings, as this écharpe de Rue should be perfectly plain; it is only those worn at the theatre or balls that should be embroidered.

PELERINES.—Pelerines are not only worn in out-door costume, but are still worn much in muslin for in-door costume. There is one trés negligé and simple called "a la Puritaine," the form of it being rather long, and buttoned down the front, finished round the tuck by a bouillon of the same material, through it is passed a pretty colored ribbon. Some of these have merely a hem round them; but others, more distingué, are trimmed with narrow lace and inlet, and sometimes, a rûche, which takes off a great deal of its simplicity; these last are certainly more admired; a rich rûche of tulle, giving a light effect to the muslin, which is mostly lined with a pretty pink gauze; the muslin is sometimes figured, which gives it a still richer effect.

FLOWERS.—Roses are no longer worn, and nothing is seen but the elegantine, the hawthorn of the woods, the camelia of the garden, the heath or broom, which comes at each season to ornament the modest prairies, and the aloes, which require a hundred years to bring its rare beauties to perfection.

SLIPPERS.—The most fashionable slippers for ladies, are now made of guipure, lined with white satin.

FASHIONABLE COLORS.—The most favorite colors for this month are myrtle green, grenat, gris, bois, blue marine, and blue Louise.