Page:Peterson's Magazine 1842, Volume I.pdf/311

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SLEEVES are now being entirely made in the style of the reign Louis 14th, and such as were worn by Jean, Bart, and Villeroy, descending loose to the elbow, and having an under one of muslin or lace underneath. Les Manches Diana de Poictiers are also much in vogue, being considered the most graceful and useful things possible ; they are very pretty when worn with dresses having short sleeves, showing the dress underneath.

COIFFURE. The hair being now generally worn in long light ringlets in the front, nothing is more beautiful than to see them relieved either on one or both sides, with a lovely natural flower of a hue suitable to the complexion ofthe fair wearer. Les couronnes cérés are also very becoming ; for full dress jewels are generally intermixed with the flowers. The most charming description of coiffure now worn is that called Rosine; it consists of a multitude of narrow ribbon streamers falling on one side over the neck, and on the other forming a charming panache, which is attached to the back hair or plait. This coiffure, when not worn in full dress, may be rendered still prettier and more negligée, by a pretty lace, either black or white, being added to it. PROMENADE DRESSES.-The following may be considered as those most generally worn. Dresses ofpoult de soie, one in grey shaded groseille ; the skirt trimmed in the front with a double black lace, put on perfectly plain, and attached with six bows of ribbon of the same color as the dress ; body high and sitting close to the figure ; the waist a rounded point. An elegant Cardinal pelerine is worn over, trimmed carelessly with black lace, put on plain; sleeves, pagodes, half-long, and edged with a black lace, forming a division to the coquettish-looking sleeves underneath of batiste bouillonées, with embroidered inlet between ; the others in sea-green silk, are made in the style called à la Medicis, the skirt being perfectly plain ; corsage in a point, formed of three rows of fullings, separated with folds of the same material ; the folds on the shoulder forming a jockey over the sleeves, which are guaged flat and cut on the bias ; and, lastly, those in Pekin silk,glacée grey and green, trimmed en tablier with a bordering of soutache, forming a double festoon, corsage high andin three divisions, ornamented also with soutache reaching from the shoulder to the point of the waist. ROBES DE CHAMBRE are now being generally worn, composed of a foulard, white mousseline de laine, or in cachemire frongé, the skirt of some being trimmed with nœuds of ribbon, or three rows of buttons ; corsage and sleeves plain, with a double pelerine. Others have the skirt showing an under jupe beautifully embroidered ; sleeves à la religieuses worn over a thin cambric sleeve, trimmed with Valenciennes : the latter costume is by far the prettiest and most fanciful. A few of the most recherché description are made of unbleached cambric, ornamented with facings of the same, figured and trimmed with elegant fringe or an embroidery in soutache.

SCARFS. Some of our élégantes preferring the scarf to the ugly cardinals, or, still deeper camails, wear them of a lighter tissue, with arabesques and palms, figuring upon them. Scarfs of Ombre silks of the most delicate and charming hue, with open-work of gymp, and trimmings of deep lace are also worn with great effect.

A DIRGE. Now is done thy long day's work ; Fold thy palms across thy breast, Fold thine arms, turn to thy rest. Let them rave. Shadows of the silver birk Sweep the green that folds thy grave. Let them rave. Thee nor carketh care nor slander ; Nothing but the small cold worm Fretteth thine enshrouded form. Let them rave. Light and shadow ever wander O'er the green that folds thy grave. Let them rave.

Thou wilt not turn upon thy bed ; Chaunteth not the brooding bee Sweeter tones than calumny? Let them rave. Thou wilt never raise thine head From the green that folds thy grave, Let them rave, Crocodiles wept tears for thee ; The woodbine and eglatere Drip sweeter dews than traitor's tear. Let them rave. Rain makes music in the tree O'er the green that folds thy grave. Let them rave. Round thee blow, self-pleached deep, Bramble-roses, faint and pale, And long purples of the dale. Let them rave. These in every shower creep Through the green that folds thy grave. Let them rave. The gold-eyed kingcups fine ; The frail bluebell peereth over Rare broidry of the purple clover. Let them rave. Kings have no such couch as thine, As the green that folds thy grave. Let them rave. Wild words wander here and there ; God's great gift of speech abused Makes thy memory confusedBut let them rave. The balm-cricket carols clear In the green that folds thy grave. TENNYSON. Let them rave.