Page:Peterson's Magazine 1842, Volume I.pdf/235

2 are mostly trimmed with folds, and brandebourgs are made high and open. Ball dresses are still decorated with flowers of every form and description; this style of trimming continues to increase in favor as the summer advances; and the skirts of these dresses are mostly made of double jupe.

A very new and becoming style of dress has just been shown us by one of our great Modistes and is likely to be very much worn this summer, particularly when made in white; it is trimmed with broad folds or tucks, divided by rows of rich lace inlets, attached en point de revière. Sleeves à bouillons, in the same style, or, what is still prettier, with volants of lace running in the form of a corkscrew around the sleeve and reaching from the shoulder to the wrist, forming a manchette to the hand. The corsage à l'enfant is also decorated with lace.

BONNETS. The petit bonnets, made open to shew the face and thrown far backward, falling almost upon the neck behind, have had their day and given place, in the fashionable world, to a style of quite the opposite character. The bonnets are now made posée, so as to shade the countenance, and slightly raised up behind; we have seen some capotes made in this form, ofpou de soie blanc rose, or blue, and trimmed with flowers; also in sewn pailles d'Italie, lined with glacé silk shaded rose or blue, with trimmings of handsome shaded ribbons and flowers. Capotes of paille de riz are also extremely becoming; we have seen them lined with verdant green, with a bouquet of feathers shaded green and white, and also in cerise or straw color. Nothing is worn for morning costume but these styles of capotes. In Paris, fashionable bonnets are made transparent; they are mostly covered with a snowy tulle, or crêpe basiné, and ornamented with a Russian bouquet, composed of a cluster of flowers, and decorated under the brim with small detached flowers without leaves, having a very light and novel effect. The favorite colors are pale pink or blue for afternoon dresses, but in the morning, a beautiful mixture of citron and lilac Some are made of grey taffeta glacé, green, blue, or white, and ornamented with marabout frisés. Amidst the most favorite flowers we must not omit mentioning the jasmin d'Espagne, the jacinthe, the eglantine, and the camillas, branches of the lilac and the acacia, mixed with leaves. LA CAPOTE ISABEL is intended for full dress costume, being mostly composed of the lightest materials, such as gauze or lace; some are made in crepe, pink or blue, and ornamented with marabouts, pink and white, or blue and white, having a small tulle veil attached gracefully on the exterior; there is a magic in putting on this latter ornament which evinces the skill of the artist. It is arranged and fastened in the interior of the brim and near the face. It then turns gracefully over the exterior and falls on one side, where it is attached with an agraffe, or tuft of ribbons. The pale pink shewing through the net veil throws a shade or blush over the countenance, which is extremely becoming.

HEAD DRESSES are made in light textures, such as gauze, ribbon, flowers, and blonde ; the more careless they are made to appear, the more becoming they are considered ; those that are composed of blonde and flowers are generally in the form of a single round caul, from which depends a volant of lace or blonde, elevated on one side with a bouquet of three roses, cach shaded differently, and on the lower side with a nœud of green ribbon, having two long ends streaming from it ; others are made with fullings of gauze, variegated with very light roses, forming a kind of wreath round the crown of the head ; those that are made of ribbon are in the form of a coronet, and composed of two wellassorted colors, and having two long ends falling in a kind of lappet on each side ; this style of head-dress allows of the whole of the back hair being seen, and which is mostly decorated with a Josephine comb. For full dress, marabouts interspersed with glovina pins will be much worn, forming a perfect coiffure. In Paris, headdresses are worn of every description, from a simple rose to a gorgeous turban. The younger élegantes, indeed, retain their preference for flowers, which are being carried to the greatest perfection. Chaplets of roses, wreaths, and tufts of Parma violets, small Greek cauls made of pearls, encasing the back of the head and falling in low tassels of the same on each side, are very becoming when contrasted with dark hair; then there is that becoming coiffure, in the form of a berêt, composed of a twist of pale pink areophane and pearls, the ends falling low on one side with fringes of pearls, and shewing the back hair in all its beauty.

GLOVES.-Nothing can be prettier than the manner of trimming gloves at the present time; those intended for ball costume are generally ornamented with pearls, coral, and white bugle trimming, terminated with tassels; the white bugles, in particular, have a very splendid effect at candlelight. But the greatest novelty for summer and the prettiest trimming for colored gloves, or the mittens (which are so much the present fashion) is the Algerine trimmings, which, without any pretension, are yet so becoming to the arms, the velvet forming such a decided contrast to the skin, the color sometimes varying, being sometimes grenat or green; the back, however, has the best effect.

MOUCHOIRS.- At no period can we recall these useful appendages being in greater perfection than those of the present day. We have now mouchoirs for the morning, worked all round simply and in various colors; then there is the mouchoir for pro menade, splendidly worked. Lastly, there is the mouchoir for mourning, plainly ornamented with a dark border.