Page:Peking the Beautiful.pdf/136

 A Panorama

DHE GREAT circular temple that crowns the summit of Dan Shou Shan is reached by immense flights of broad stone steps, at the head of each of which is a spacious landing. (See plate on page 39.) This famous temple, known to the Chinese as Fo Hsiang Ko, is also approached by little winding paths, some of which pass through interesting tunnels and cool grottoes that lead us from the lower terraces to the sunnier slopes near the top. At best it is no easy climb, and halfway up we stop to rest under the inviting shade of Ch'ien Lung's famous Bronze Pavilion that still stands on the spot that the emperor selected for it-a marble terrace overlooking the jade-green waters of the lake. This highly-omamented tittle structure, glowing in its rich bronze tones, is graced with a double roof which reaches twenty feet and more above the pavement. It is surrounded by a marble terrace ascended on three sides by broad stone stairways, and is flanked by sculptured balustrades. Nothing but bronze has entered into its construction—its tiles, its gables, its pillars, its beams, its latticed windows, and its richly carved doors are all of solid bronze. Little wonder then, that the fires of 1860, which destroyed all other more flimsy structures, left this little gem of architecture untouched. Some would tell us that the Bronze Pavilion is the handiwork of the Jesuit Fathers, and that it was cast by them in the early part of the eighteenth century. (It is the little square building at the extreme right of the photo.) We would fain stop longer here, but having heard much about the marvelous view from the hilltop, we press upwards toward the towering temple above us. Panting for breath we at last reach the top, and there under the cool shade of broad verandahed pavilions, we sit down to rest and enjoy the wonderful panorama spread out before us. It is a charming scene that we look down upon—"just like a description from the Arabian Nights," says Juliet Bredon—"a fairyland of quaint-shaped summer houses, soft pink walls, rainbow roofs, lacquered columns, white marble arches and camel-back bridges against the background of the hills, so varied in outline, so soft and tender and beautiful in their ever-changing colors." Directly below, like an ocean of gold in the sunshine, is a huge glittering mass of yellow glaze—the roofs of the Imperial palaces. On either side, set in the midst of shady groves of cypress and fic, rise the sparkling multicolored roofs of a myriad lesser pavilions, while beyond lie the placid waters of the lake. Then listing our gaze away from this lovely scene, far beyond the sunlit rice fields, to the southeast we can just trace amid the haze and dust of the city, the dim outline of massive gray walls and towers-the battle ments of old Peking. (See also paqes 20, 38, 46, 58, 68, 80, 90, 94, 104, 126, and 152.]