Page:Peking the Beautiful.pdf/112

 Kuan Yin at the Pi Yun Ssă

UT ZENDING our way upward from the Hall of the Four Great Kings, N a ve pass through the pavilion where sits the smiling figure of Maitreya, the Laughing Buddha. From a great rend in the roof wind and rain now beat upon his gilded features, but laughing, he heeds it not; and the people, simple country folk that they are-still "envy him because his paunch is filled forever." Passing the models of heaven and hell, with their crumbling "freaks of art," the next flight of steps opens into a spacious courtyard dotted with trees and vines and interspersed with bronze ums and marble statuary. Looking across a tiny mountain stream, spanned by a marble bridge, we face the principal hall, or "tien," containing the most important images. Here in the gathering darkness-behind rich hangings, huge candlesticks, and votive offerings-is a huge seated figure of the so-called "Blessed One." Facing another fine courtyard, still higher up on the mountainside, we find a richly adomed sanctuary dedicated to Kuan Yin Pusa, the "Goddess of Mercy." This "mos! human of all the Buddhist theogeny" sits enthroned, not on a lotus bud, as is usual, but on the back of that most dreadful of all creatures—the mythical Hou. According to tradition this Chinese "king of beasts" is able to walk or fly, and has power over all living creatures. "At their unearthly call even tigers obey, hastening like their weaker brethren to inevitable doom." Only Kuan Yin, she who "looketh down above the sound of prayer," has power to tame this fearsome monster, and with perfect poise she seats herself upon his back. (See opposite plate] The sutras are loud in their praises of this most popular goddess. "Storms and hate give way to her name. Fire is quenched by her name. Demons vanish at the sound of her name. By her name one may stand firm in the sky like a suck" Here in these two principal halls where live the images of Sakyamuni and Kuan Yin, most of the temple services are held. These sanctuaries contain "all the paraphernalia of Buddhist worship-the big qong and painted drum, the brass cymbals and heart shaped block of wood which a monk taps in measure with the chants, the long kneeling benches ... and the altar with its set of ritual implements, libation bowls, incense urns full of gray ashes--the accumulation of years-red candles as thick as your wrist, piles of fruit, and curious criss-cross towers made of sticks of sugared shortbread" An elaborately decorated "reredos forms a background to the Buddha, while the ceiling above consists of sunk panels beautifully carved and painted." These sanctuaries and the numerous pavilions surrounding them are still well preserved, and they, with their colorful, flower-bedecked courtyards, contain many interesting old art treasures.