Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/67

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 * STYLE I - Dartless Front
 * STYLE I - Dartless Front
 * STYLE I - Dartless Front

Illustration shows front without darts.

Pattern is so cut, thiat the darts are eliminated.

The dartless front foundation may be used for styles made in soft and thin materials, and fit the less mature figure only.

I - Using the dress front foundation to waist-line only, draw lines from breast point to nick and armhole as shown by dotted lines Mark sections A, B and C.

II - Slash on dotted lines and close up front dart making the spread at neck 1/4″ leaving the remainder of the spread at armhole.

III - Indicate the spaces at neck, and armhole with notches, and with dotted lines from armhole to breast point.
 * STYLE 2 - with Pin Tucks at Shoulder
 * STYLE 2 - with Pin Tucks at Shoulder
 * STYLE 2 - with Pin Tucks at Shoulder

Pin tucks are used mainly in sheer materials, such as georgette, chiffon, sheer crepes, etc., and the tucks can be made on right or wrong side of material.

I - Using the dartless front foundation, draw the first tuck line 1-1/4″- in from neck, along shoulder line, down to breast point, Draw remaining tuck lines 3/4″ apart.

II - Cut out armhole dart; then slash on tuck lines and spread 1/4″ at shoulder for 1/8″ pin tucks. This will reduce part of the fulness at armhole.

III. Make length of tucks as shown by dotted lines, making the first tuck 4″ long, and 1/4″ less for each succeeding tuck.
 * STYLE 3 - High Cowl Neck, 1″ Above the Regular Neckline
 * STYLE 3 - High Cowl Neck, 1″ Above the Regular Neckline
 * STYLE 3 - High Cowl Neck, 1″ Above the Regular Neckline

1. Trace dartless front foundation; then raise neck,  1″ at center front, and lower neck 1″ at shoulder.

II - Draw a curved slash line from center front at higher neck, to shoulder below neck-line. Mark sections, A and B.

III - Slash along dotted line between A and B from center front to shoulder; then raise section A, so that the upper line will be at right angle to the center front line.

This will provide the allowance for the drape.

Add 1″ hem across the top as shown by the dotted lines.
 * STYLE 4 - Neck Darts
 * STYLE 4 - Neck Darts
 * STYLE 4 - Neck Darts

I. Trace the dartless front foundation; then draw lines for the darts as shown by dotted lines, Mark sections A to D.

II. Cut out the armhole dart; then slash along the 3 dart lines, and spread sections B, C, and D, 1/2″ at neck, ,for 1/4″ darts. For center front dart, draw line 1/4″ in from center front at neck, down to a point 6″ below neckline. Lower the neckline 1″ evenly all around.

III. Draw V-Shaped lines for the neck darts Indicating top of darts with notches.
 * STYLE 5 - Neck Bathers
 * STYLE 5 - Neck Bathers
 * STYLE 5 - Neck Bathers

Illustration shows gathers at neck (the space being about 2" each side of center front).

I - Using the dartless front foundation, draw 2 slash lines as shown by dotted lines; then mark sections A to D.

II - First cut out the armhole and waist darts; then slash along dotted lines from neck down, and spread for neck gathers, closing up the darts at armhole and waist.

III - Diagram shows completed front pattern.

The 2 gathering lines near neck edge, are about 1/4″ apart.
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