Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/65

 DRESS SHOUIiDER PAD — 2 STYLES

HOW TO DRAFT PAD FOR THE SET-IN-SLEEVE

Make shoulder pad pattern In, 3 ««ct Ions.

Pad should be about 1-1/4" thlck at center outer end, when finished.

I and II

Draft top section of pad as follows Draft center section of pad as follows:.

Finally draft bottom of pad as follows:

III

To complete the pattern, allow seams (about 1/4") to the edges as indicated; then make corresponding notches and mark sections 1, 2 and 3.

IV HOW TO ADJUST PATTERN FOR SHOULDER PAD

Raise shoulder in front and back about 1/4" at outer part, to nothing at center of shoulder. Make shoulder 1/2" wider; make armhole 1/4" deeper; make underarm seam 1/4" wider at top to nothing at bottom.

Adjust sleeve pattern as follows. Raise cap about 1/2" then widen sleeve 1/2" at arm to nothing at bottom. Deepen cap at each side about 1/4".

HOW TO MAKE THE PAD I Sew section 3 to sections 1 and 2, taking up 1/4" seams.

II Cut crinoline Interfacing same as section 3, trimming off seam allowance at outer edge. Baste to wrong side of section 3. Turn right side out as shown in diagram v.

III and IV

Cut a layer of cotton batting same., as crinoline interfacing; then cut 4 more layers, each 1/2" smaller along the shoulder edges. Arrange in position as illustrated.

V Slip cotton batting between edges of pad, and shape, thinning cotton to nothing at shoulder edges.

VI

Stitch pad about 1/2" In from raw edges, then overcast.

VII

Showing finished pad.

FOR ROUNDED SHOULDER PAD

This pad is especially suitable for the dress with kimono sleeve, raglan sleeve or dropped shoulder sleeve design. For the rounded pad, add an oval shaped piece to the regular dress pad as follows:

I and II Draft an oval shaped section, 5-1/2"X 7", as indicated, then cut in material on the bias.

III and IV Fold oval section through center, Inserting layer of cotton batting. Whip raw edges together.

v Lap oval section to dress pad about 3/4Vln_If02 «"*{;; edge of pad at center, to nothing at each end. Whip to pad easing in fulness.

{[center|VI}}

Showing finished pad.