Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/64

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HOW TO ADJUST DRESS FOUNDATION FOR BROADER SHOULDER AND SLIGHTLY DEEPER ARMHOLE

I

Ilustration I shows armhole of dress at normal position on shoulder of form. The dotted line Indicates slightly broader shoulder outline, this being a style feature in practically all types of garments.

A garment having the armhole extending beyond the normalposition on the shoulder, requires padding. The broader the shoulder, the greater the need, for the padding.

Diagram I shows dress foundation adjusted for the broader shoulder and slightly deeper armhole as indicated by dotted lines. The width across front and back at bustline should be maintained as shown in the diagram.

To adjust pattern, trace front and back; then draft shoulders about 1/4" broader and armhole 1/4 deeper. Extend side seams slightly to maintain the width across front and back at bustline.

II

Illustration II shows dress with broader shoulder cut according to the adjusted pattern (pad should be inserted for fitting). A garment having slightly broader shoulders also has more width across back, and therefore gives greater freedom for action. For shoulder dart in front, slash from center of shoulder to breast point; then close up front dart, forming straight center front line as shown in diagram II.

III

Illustration III shows sleeve made to conform with the broader shoulder and slightly deeper armhole.

Sleeve has extra ease allowance in cap to allow shoulder pad to extend 1/2 or 3/4" beyond armhole.

Diagram III shows cap of sleeve foundation adjusted for the 1/4" deeper armhole. For additional ease in sleeve cap (totalling 2-1/2" ease), draw slash lines as illustrated; then stash and spread as shown in diagram IV. This will raise the cap about 1/2" higher, and widen the sleeve about 1/2 at arm (bicep).

IV

Divide each side of sleeve cap into 2 equal parts, and indicate with circles. This will give the position for ease in sleeve cap between circles. For materials such as velveteen or corduroy, use the original sleeve foundation, because of the difficulty of easing in the extra allowance for fulness.

HOW TO MAKE A SHOULDER PAD FOR THE DRESS

I and II

Cut a diamond shaped piece 7"x 7" in silk or rayon; then insert cotton batting and thin it out towards the point. Turn in edges and slipstitch.

III

Tack pad to shoulder and armhole seams.

Illustration at right shows position of pad starting 2" from neckline and extending 1/2 or 3/4" beyond armhole, as indicated by dotted lines.