Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/63

13 DRAFT OF ONE-PIECE DRESS SLEEVE (Special Measurement Method)

The illustrations above show how to take the folowing arm measurements:

1. Underam lenglth -- from armhole to wrist.

2. Arm Circumference - a little below armliole.

3. Elbow Circumference --- with arm bent up.

4. Overarm Length --- from shoulder to wrist.

5. Wrist-Circumference - a loose measurement.

HOW TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE FOUNDATION, SIZES 12 TO 20

The sleeve draft provides for a 2", minimum ease allowance around the arm at muscle. For example: If arm measurement is 11" for size 16, make sleeve pattern 13" wide, or 6-1/2" from D to E.

When drafting the sleeve, line A-B should be directly in center ot draft.

II. GUIDE LINES FOR SLEEVE CAP

K to N - Equals 1/2 of line K-M. K to O - Equals 1/4 of line K-M. M to P - Equals 1/4 of line K-M. K to Q - equals 1/2 of K-0. D to R - Equals 1/2 of D-C. M to S - Equals 1/2 of M-E, less 1/2". C to T - 1".

Draw the guide lines from O to Q to R for front of sleeve) for back of sleeve, from P to S to T.

SLEEVE CAP

For top of cap, draw a curved line from S to N to Q; for bottom of cap, from Q to A to S as shown by dotted lines.

III. SHAPING THE SLEEVE Shape the draft of sleeve as follows; J to U - 1/2"

U to G - Connect

U to V - Equals 1/2 of wrist measure. Draw this line 3-1/2" long for size 16, with 1/8" grade for each size, bringing point V, about 3/4" below line J-L.

V to H - Connect.

V to W - Equals 1/2 of line U-V.

W to F - Connect.

IV

To complete the sleeve, fold drafting paper on line Q-G, and trace from Q to A to F; then open paper and fold again on line G-U, and trace from to W to U.

V AND VI

Repeat process tor tracing back of sleeve as shown by dotted lines; then convert the extra length at elbow (about 1-1/4")by making a V-shaped dart about 3" long for size 16 (with 1/8" grade for each size).

To complete sleeve pattern, allow seams.

ONE PIECE SHAPED SLEEVE WITH 3 ELBOW DARTS The feature of this sleeve is that it is slightly more shaped than the sleeve with the single elbow dart.

For the 3 elbow darts, add 1" to back edge of sleeve by slashing along the elbow line, from back to front, and spreading 1" at elbow.

Plan the 3 darts by first drafting the center dart, 3/4" × 2-1/2". Then draft the other 2 darts, one above, and the other below the center dart, as shown by dotted lines.