Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/62

12 How to draft the one-piece shaped sleeve,using the arm-hole of the dress foundation (size 16) as a guides

The cap height measurement A to C,as shown in diagram I, equals 1/3 of the armhole circumference plus 1/2". This applies to all misses and junior sizes.

The sleeve provides for a 2" ease around the arm, about 1" below armhole,

I

Trace outline of dress front and back (hip length), with sides together at bust and hip lines.

A to B - Square line across from center back line, touching lowest part of armhole.

A to C - 6" Cap height. Square tine across at C,

D - Locate point D on front armhole, half way between lines A and C.

D to E - 1",

F - Locate, point F on back armhole, half way between lines A and C, fess 1/2",

F to G - 1",

II

H to I - 17 - Draw a Straight tine down between the side seam lines of front and back; then square a line across at lower end on both sides of point I.

I to J- 17-3/4 - Extend line 3/4" above H.

K - Center between J and I.

L to M - 5-1/2. - Square a line from K to L and K to M 2-3/4" each side of K,

IV

N to O - Draw line through L and E. P to Q - Draw line through M and G.

V GUIDE LINES FOR SLEEVE CAP

R - Center between O and Q. S - Center between O and R. T - Center between R and Q. V - Center between U and H. Draw quide lines, from S to E to V; then from T to G to 1" from H,

VI SLEEVE CAP Curve a line from G to R to E; then From E to J to G

VII SHAPING THE SLEEVE

Shape sleeve as follows:

N to W - 1/2"

L to W - Connect.

W to X - 3-1/2", bringing point X, 1/2" below line N-P,

M to X - Connect.

VIII FRONT OF SLEEVE

Y - Center between W-X,

K to Y - Connect.

Form front of sleeve as follows:

Fold paper on line E-L and trace from E to J to K; then open paper and fold again on line L-W. Trace from K to ¥ to W and open paper,

IX BACK OF SLEEVE

For back of sleeve, repeat process of diagram VIII but begin tracing from G to J; etc,

X BACK DART

In opening the sleeve, the back edge becomes about 1-1/4" longer than front edge,

Draw Y-shaped: dart at elbow about 3" long and 1-1/4" wide.

No seams are allowed.