Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/61

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HOW TO DRAFT THE DRESS FOUNDATION

Use the fitted waist foundation as a guide to draft the dress foundation, as follows:

I. EASE ALLOWANCE FOR THE DRESS FOUNDATION

Trace the outline of the front and back fitted waist foundation; then add the extra ease allowance needed for the dress foundation at side seam of front and back. Lower the armhole, 1/4", as shown by dotted lines. Trace the waist darts in front and back.

II. DRAFTING THE HIP LENGTH CHEST SLANT" FOUNDATION

Cut out the new front and back; then draft the hip length dress foundation as follows:

Square a line across at K, indefinite length (about 2").

To complete the front draft, slash from L to M, and cut out the waist dart from N to M and 0 to M; then pivoting at point M, swing front, so that point P touches the squared line near point K. as shown in diagram III.

III. COMPLETING THE WAIST DART

Connect P to J; then complete the waist dart in front as follows:

H to Q -- Equals space, L to M. N to Q -- Connect. O to Q -- Connect.

Make dart in back, below waistline in same manner in front.

This completes the draft of the chest slant" dress foundation.No seams are allowed.

See directions below for making the "shoulder dart" or the "side dart" dress foundation.

HOW TO DRAFT THE SHOULDER DART FRONT

I AND II

The method of drafting this front is similar to the draft of the chest slant foundation, with one exception, that instead of slashing from center front to breast point (L to M), you slash from center of at shoulder to breast point L to M and pivot front point M so that point P touches the squared line near point K, as shown in diagram II.

Connect P to J and make the waist dart.

III

To complete the front, draw V-shaped dart from shoulder seam to about 2" above breast point.

Add 1/2" to length at center front, to nothing at side seam.

IV

Cut out front in muslin; then make the shoulder and 1/2". waist darts. Try muslin fitting on dress form.

HOW TO DRAFT THE SIDE DART FRONT

I AND II

Repeat method of drafting the front foundations, but for the side dart; slash from side seam to breast point L to M, and swing lower, side part of front (pivoting at point M), so that point P will touch the squared Tine near point K, as shown in diagram II.

To complete the foundation, connect P to J, and then make the dart below waistline.

III Draw V-shaped dart from side seam to about 2 from breast point.

Lengthen center front 1/2", to nothing at side seam as shown by dotted lines.

IV

Make muslin fitting and try on dress form.