Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/60

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2 STYLES OF FITTED BODICES

FRENCH FITTED BODICE

I

Illustrations show front and back view of French bodice.

II Trace fitted front and back, including the darts; then square a. line across at lower part of armhole as shown by dotted line.

III

Divide Front into two parts as follows: A to B -- Equals front shoulder. A to C -- Equals 1/2 of shoulder. C to D -- Draw line from C to D, at top of dart. Divide Back into two parts as follows: E to F -- Equals A to C on front shoulder. F to G -- Draw line from F to G, at top of dart. H -- Center between F-G.

I to J -- Equals B to C on front shoulder. J to H -- Connect.

For the grain lines, mark arrows on side sections by squaring from the bust line.

IV

Trace each section about 2" apart, eliminating the darts at the waistline and the dart at the back shoulder.

Draw a curved line in side section of front at point D as shown by dotted line.

V

For the first fitting, add seams on the edges as shown in the diagram.

Make corresponding notches as indicated.

Use two single notches in front, one above the bust curve and one below.

When making a final pattern for a garment, allow seams also at neck, armhole and waistline.

VI

This diagram shows fitting partly joined. First join the front sections, matching, notches; then join seams of the back sections. Join side seams and press all seams open, before joining shoulder seams.

BODICE WITH LOW NECKLINE

I Illustrations show seams in front and back running from waistline to armhole instead of to shoulder seam.

II

Trace front and back foundation and shift position of darts as shown by dotted lines; then draw seam line from top of darts to armholes in front and back.

Mark sections A, B, C and D. seams on the edges, as

III

Lower the neckline in front and back to correspond with the neckline in the illustration.

The lower neckline at center back is usually dropped about 3/4 of the drop at shoulder.

Lower the waistline at center front, 1-1/2", as illustrated.

IV

Trace sections A to D about 2 apart and round the corners as shown by dotted lines.

The grain lines, seam allowance and notches are to be made in the same manner as for the French fitted bodice.