Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/59

9 2 STYLES OF PITTED BODICES

BODICE FRONT WITH 3 WAIST DARTS

I

Trace the front foundation; then square a line across at top of dart.

For the 3 darts, first trace part of the first dart, from A to A-1.

II

Mark the position for the top of the 3 darts 1" apart between A, B and C.

Make the space at lower part of the first dart, between A-1 and A-2, 1/3 of the single dart in the front foundation.

III

Complete the second and third dart (same size as first), making the space 3/4" wide between each dart at waist line.

BODICE BACK WITH NECK DART Illustration shows waist dart omitted,.

Diagrams IV, V and Vi show how to eliminate the waist dart, and how to form the neck dart.

IV

Trace the back foundation then eliminate the waist. dart by reducing 1" at waistline to nothing at armhole, near side seam. Mark sections D and E.

V

Bring sections D and E together; then draw new center back line, by adding 1/4" at neck and reducing 1/2" at waistline, as shown by dotted line.

VI Make the neck dart 1/4" wide and 3" long; 1-1/2" from center back.

BODICE WITH 3 SHOULDER TUCKS

Illustration shows 3 tucks at shoulder and no darts at the waistline.

The garment fits closely at the waistline and smoothly over the bust.

According to the design, the tucks may be made as inside or outside tucks. In appearance, both ways are decorative; In fitting value, both serve the same purpose.

I

Use the front with the 3 waist darts as a guide; then mark positions for the 3 tucks as follows: First draw the center tuck line, from the center of shoulder to the middle dart; then draw a line 1" each side of the center line, and mark sections A-B-C-D.

II

Cut out front; then slash along the 3 tuck lines. Place front on another sheet of paper and close up the waist darts to spread section A-B-C-D evenly for the 3 shoulder tucks. Pin to position.

III

Trace front and mark shoulder tucks in dotted lines, making the left tuck 8" long, center tuck 4-3/4", and the right, 4-1/2".

IV and V

Cut out front in muslin and make the 3 shoulder tucks, as shown in the diagrams.

Press tucks toward the center front.

As a rule, tuck lines are parallel to the center front line, or slant slightly toward the center front, at lower part of tucks.