Page:Oregon Historical Quarterly vol. 5.djvu/247

Rh interesting acquaintance, Clark. No pen, indeed, can correctly describe the charming and rural appearance of this island. Mrs. Marie Graham (now Mrs. Callcott) given a no less charming account of Juan Fernandez, and the view from her talented pencil engraved in her "Journal of a Residence in Chili" bears her out in her description. "It is," she says, "the most picturesque place I ever saw, being composed of high perpendicular rocks, wooded nearly to the top, with beautiful valleys; and the ruins of the little town in the largest of these heightens the effect. It was too late to go ashore when we anchored; but it was bright moonlight, and we stayed long on the deck at night, admiring the extraordinary beauty of the time." "The valleys are exceedingly fertile, and watered by copious streams, which occasionally form small marshes, where the Panke grows very luxuriantly, as well as water cresses and other aquatic plants. The little valley where the town is, or rather was, is full of fruit trees, and flowers, and sweet herbs, now grown wild; and near the shore it is covered with radishes and seaside oats. After dinner I walked to the valley called Lord Anson's park; and on our way found numbers of European shrubs and herbs,

and in the half-ruined hedges, which denote the boundaries of former fields, we found apples, pears, and quince trees, with cherries almost ripe. The ascent is steep and rapid from the beach, even in the valleys, and the long grass was dry and slippery, so that it rendered the walk rather fatiguing, and we were glad to sit down under a large quince tree on a carpet of balm, bordered with roses, now neglected, and rest, and feast our eyes with the lovely view before us. Lord Anson has not exaggerated the beauty of the place, or the delights of the climate; we were rather early for its fruits; but even at this time we have gathered delicious figs, and cherries, and pears, that a few more days' sun would have perfected. I was quite sorry to leave our station in the park and return to the landing place to embark for the dark close ship."

"The next morning," she remarked, "I had reached a lonely spot, where no trace of man could be seen, and where I seemed to have no communication with any living being. I had been some hours alone in this magnificent wilderness, and thought at first I might begin with exaltation to cry,

yet I very soon felt that utter lonliness is as disagreeable as unnatural; and Cowper's exquisite lines again served me—

And I repeated over and over the whole of the poem, till I saw two of my companions of the morning coming down the hill, when I hurried to meet them, as if I had really been 'out of humanity's reach.— the numerous rills descending through the valleys, overshadowed by luxuriant verdure, and terminal in in dark recesses and rocky dells, where waved the feathery fronds of Lomatia, Aspidia, and Polypodia, several species of which are new and of truly princely form and growth. On the hills