Page:On the Desert - Recent Events in Egypt.djvu/55

 The selection of camels is a very nice matter, as on a good beast depends much of the comfort of one's journey. Looking over the number of those lying on the ground, I picked out a young dromedary that had rather a sleek appearance. Just then Dr. Schweinfurth, who was passing in the street, came up, and gave us the benefit of his experience as an African traveller. He thought I had chosen rather a pretty creature, but advised me to spread out what she carried broadly on her back, so as to make, not a narrow saddle, but a space on which one could sit in Turkish fashion, with his legs under him, or change his posture at will. I observed that this was the custom of the Arabs, by which they are able to take their long marches on the desert without undue fatigue. As my camel and I were now to be on somewhat intimate relations, I approached to make her acquaintance, and even tendered her some little caressing, attempting to stroke her gently; but in an instant she swung round her long neck, and gave me a vicious snap, which warned me not to presume on any familiarities. I concluded to make no further advances, but still virtuously resolved to be a kind and indulgent master.

In all this busy preparation, I felt as if I were "only a passenger," although Dr. Post said that the Arabs, recognizing me as the head of the expedition, would give me the title of "Father of Backsheesh." I find that the relation between the giver of backsheesh and the receiver of it, is a mysterious and sacred one. Hardly had I left this tent-ground before an Arab, whose camel I was to ride, rushed up to me in the street, and saluted me with the greatest warmth, telling me that "he was my backsheesh-man"!

The camels went forward to Suez four days before we left Cairo. As we could overtake them in a few hours by railway, we lingered behind to the last moment to enjoy