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44 and comings of the people at this Coney Island of Hawaii. "This doesn't look much like a savage country," I thought.

The drives around the city, to the museum, churches, colleges, and other public buildings, were equally interesting. I had expected to behold a city "behind the times," but here was something thoroughly up-to-date, with electric lights, telephones, and street cars and stages running in all directions.

And yet it was vastly different from anything I had yet seen; different from Santiago, Cuba, and different from New York and San Francisco. It was the jumble of population as much as anything, and the variety of costumes worn. The shops, big and little, were kept by all sorts of people, and a good deal of trading was done in the open air.

"It's a patch-quilt from the whole world," said Dan. "I believe you can go out and in a day meet a man from nearly every nationality under the sun, including South Sea Islanders, South Americans, and all the rest."

"For dress everything seems to be the fashion," laughed Oliver. "I just saw two natives go by. One had on a regular dress-suit and the other, well, he didn't have on much of anything at all."

"It's a go-as-you-please mode of living," I