Page:Notes ecclesiological and picturesque.djvu/114

Rh had resolved to walk round the western coast of the island, where no carriage can penetrate. My companion preferred the easier conveyance of a two-horse car along the one Veglian road; and, as my way at first was the same as his, we started together. I should have thought that, as only one road is carriage-able, our driver could not have missed his way; but Lloyd's officer, awe-struck with the official paper I produced, actually paid a man to run before us and prevent all possibility of error.

The Bay of Malinski is a pretty piece of scenery; vineyards that slope down to the white pebbly beach, dog-roses that skirt the country road; olives and apple trees occupying vantage places amidst the rocky soil; and, as the road, after skirting the sea-shore, proceeds towards the hills, wheat and barley fields, each enclosed by its rude stone wall. About a mile from the quay, stands the new church, for Malinski was, till lately, in the parish of Dobasnizza. As we walked up to it, we were passed by the sexton, and I had the satisfaction of learning that one of my objects was fulfilled. "Is the service in Latin in this church?" "No," was the reply; "it is said here in Croatian—or, I ought rather to say, in Illyrian." The building itself is worthless, though clean and roomy: chancel and nave—the altar standing between the two. In the choir, I for the first time saw Glagolita books. There were two ambones, used too, as the sexton said.

Striking westwards, a quarter of a mile brought me to the chapel of S. Antonio. It is very small; circular apse, nave, western loggia—a rude Romanesque building. The apse, wagon-vaulted.