Page:Notes and Queries - Series 12 - Volume 7.djvu/251

 [12 s. vii. SEPT. ii, 1920. NOTES AND QUERIES.

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their heads like a hood ; and women of the better sort, a kind of long cloak of white camblet with a hood, almost concealing their faces.

July 22. After breakfast we sallied forth to view pictures and churches. We first saw a private collection, then St. James' church, the academy of painting or school of Rubens, and lastly the cathedral church of Notre Dame. All the fine pieces we saw were eclipsed by the master- piece of Rubens in this fine church, the taking down from the cross, with the Annunciation on one side and the Purification on the other. It is impossible to conceive painting to go beyond this ; but the solemnity of the effect is somewhat diminished by being shewn the portraits of Rubens' three wives among the figures.

Nothing struck me more than the fixed statue- like attention of the people who were paying their devotions in different parts of the church. Not a look was turned aside as we passed before them. In some the finest attitudes and expres- sions of humility and devotion were to be seen ; and I could not doubt but a great deal also was felt by the heart. There are in this church two very fine and affecting pictures, the death and ascension of the Virgin.

The women at prayers, were wrapt up in their white cloaks and hoods, which prevented the necessity of all dr ess at this early tune of the day.

At 11 we crossed the Scheld in a boat, and got a chaise on the other side to carry us to Ghent. We proceeded through an enclosed and highly cultivated country, growing much corn, buck- wheat and fine flax. The road in some parts was very heavy and sandy. We dined at a small inn in a village called Westminster. From thence the country became more populous, and we passed one considerable town where there seemed to be a manufacture of linen. Several fine villages lay in our road, among which was one extremely neat, most of the houses being white, sashed, with green window-shutters. I got out at one place and walked while the chaise was baiting along a pleasant road with rows of trees, under which was a cheerful group of people dressing green fiax. One of the men conversed with me in French.

Near eight we arrived at Ghent ; the evening so rainy that we could not stir out. Our inn here had the appearance of having been a nobleman's house. It also boasted of having lodged the Emperor ; and it lodged us very well.

23. We left Ghent at eight, taking a coach (as it still rained) to the canal. All we saw of this city was, therefore, in driving through it. It appears a large old town, with many grand buildings.

We embarked on the Bruges canal on board a vessel with one mast, very elegantly fitted up, with a very handsome cabin at each end, and a kitchen and other rooms between. The quarter deck was covered with an awning. The company was a mottley group of ladies, gentlemen, priests, and common people. We had an agreeable party in one of the cabins, of some gentlemen and two ladies from Bruges, who spoke French as their native tongue. They were polite and well educated, brown and rather thin, with black eyes, and easy, ^lively manners. I remarked

some circumstances which shewed female delicacy was not quite the same thing in Flanders as in- England.

We proceeded slowly, drawn against the wind by horses. A dinner was cooked on board, and, 15 or 16 of us sat down to it, among whom were half a dozen priests, who joined with cheerfulness and good appetite. It was a meagre day, and we had fish in various fashions, well-dressed, and neatly served up. Our wine was laid in ice.

The Flemish seem in general much livelier than- the Dutch. French is very commonly under- stood by all ranks ; and those who read are acquainted with French and English literature.

We drank tea on board, and reached Bruges between four and five. We were obliged to gcf immediately from the bark to the Ostend dili- gence ; so we saw nothing of Bruges but in driving through it. We passed a handsome market- place and town-house ; but the buildings in general seemed inferior to Antwerp and Ghent.

In the diligence were nine people, exclusive" of a child at the breast. Though our machine was none of the most commodious, we were jumbled into good humour. We baited half-way, when our women passengers by means of a draught of small brisk white wine were thrown into a very merry humour, and we had nothing afterwards but giggling and laughing ; especially from one young woman, pretty, and very voluable in Flemish French. The road was a pavement. very straight, through a sandy country, where many potatoes are grown.

We reached Ostend at half past nine, and weni) to a very comfortable (but dear) English house, where we supped in our own fashion with a company almost all English.

Ostend is a tolerable town, with many hand- some new buildings run up during the war. Its busy days seemed almost over, though the* arrival of some imperial East Indiamen had thrown a little life on the place. We observed several of the sailors, with very dusky faces, straw hats, and singular dresses, offering trinkets to sell.

After passing a most agreeable morning, and dining all together at the drdinary, we took a reluctant leave of our friends, and embarked at half-past four in a small Margate vessel. Dr. K, a young English physician to whom I had intro- duced myself at Ostend, was one of our company. There were, besides, a foreign gentleman, a French quack and his wife, and an old Fleming. The wind was almost directly contrary, and we were obliged to make many tacks before we could clear the harbour. The night was boisterous j the vessel pitched much ; and we made a very slow advance.

25. Wind still contrary and high. We des- cried the North Foreland soon in the afternoon, but approached it very slowly. At length we saw the white cliffs distinctly. Porpoises were tumbling around us ; and the birds called divers, swimming among the high waves, sometimes disappearing, then riding sublime on the very ridge of the wave, amused us much. We were so long in working into the harbour that we did not land till past nine at night a^ Margate.

M

MARTIN.