Page:Notes and Queries - Series 12 - Volume 7.djvu/130

 102 NOTES AND QUERIES. [12 s. vn. AUG. 7, 1020. chiefly built on a slope rising from, the bottom in which the mineral water springs, and presenting different stages of red houses, mostly modern, for the use of visitors. The general air is lively. The Pantiles or Parade as now called is a long row of smart shops with a colonnade before them and an esplanade beyond ; and seems a com- fortable lounging-place. The waters are drunk in a handsome stone building. There are rooms, coffee-houses, billiards, and all the usual appur- tenances of water drinking. A walk with trees called the Grove decorates the upper part of the town. Opposite the town is an open common with fine turf, affording good air and exercise to the walking parties. After a dish of tea we took our way across the common above mentioned, to the Blackrocks about a mile beyond it. The way was along a perfectly sequestered valley with hop planatations. On proceeding we first saw some rocky soars peeping through the bushep, and began to be afraid that this would prove the whole of the sight ; but at length we came suddenly upon a group of naked rock that, though much inferior in grandeur to what we had seen at Cheddar and Bristol, was well worth a walk. It resembled nothing so much as the huge sterns of ships ranged side by side, each single mass being rounded, overhanging its base, and separated by a deep cleft from the next. Mountain ash in full berry was pendent over the*>summit of some of them. The evening turned out fine and serene, and we returned after sunset well pleased with our excursion. Augt. 29. At an early hour some of the ladies were mounted upon their long-eared pads decked with green housings, and like Spenser's Una all in white, were pacing to drink the water. I luckily met on the pantiles with friend Sam Woods, who took us to breakfast with his family at a house near the Grove. By his advice we planned the day's journey, and a pleasant one it has proved. Taking leave of Tunbridge Wells I hate watering places we proceeded first by a toilsome road to the village of Frant in Sussex. There we got upon an eminence affording a wide prospect, and turning westward rode through a tract more richly wooded than I almost ever saw. In some parts an extensive view scarcely exhibited a single cleared spot, for hop plantations occupied the intervals between woods and thickets. After a ride of some miles we came to our first object, Bayham abbey, to which we turned short down a steep declivity. It occupies a bottom of fine meadow, watered by a small stream, which is widened into a pool near it : a finer spot for monastic retirement cannot well be conceived. Everything is cleared round the ruins, so as to exhibit the whole mass at a view with great distinctness. The chief remains are of the con- ventual church, which must have been a mag- nificent edifice. Enough is left to make it highly picturesque some entire window arches, light and elegant ; chapels in the side aisles, two of them still roofed; and portions of the great arch whence the tower was sprung. "There are many other remains which would doubtless be very intelligible to an ecclesiastical antiquary. No ruins in the kingdom are probably viewed so commodiously ; for the whole ground-plat is converted into walks and areas as neat as the quadrangles of a college ; indeed almost as? spruce as a London tea-garden ; and though very- pleasant to walk in, yet scarcely congruous with a scene of desolatior. It is to the credit of the- owner, Lord Camden, who has an old mansion contiguous, that the whole is left open to visitors; without the intrusion of any fee-expecting servant. The grounds about are laid out in a park-like style and rise beautifully from the level meadow to the wooded slopes of the" vale. Hence we drove on to Lamberhurst, a small town where we baited. In the afternoon we proceeded, stilt through a pleasant woody country,, to Goudhurst, a village seated on a high eminence ,. affording a most extensive prospect of the sur- rounding country on all sides, Thence, through a well-cultivated tract with many hop-grounds,, we proceeded to Cranbrook, a market town calling itself the capital of the Weald of Kent,- but in fact possessing little to boast of, but a fine- old parish church, which we took care to visit directly after our arrival with due devotion. A stroll through the streets engaged us after tea. till sunset. This whole day's ride about 1& miles has been over a tract of sand, often very deep and heavy, notwithstanding numerous- turnpikes. August 30 (Sunday). We left Cranbrook after breakfast and proceeded for Maidstone. The- first part of the road was a heavy sand and the country not interesting. Both improved as we- advanced, and at length we came into a rich vale watered by a stream which runs into the Medway. Afterwards, on crossing a ridge, beyond- which is Coxheath, we entered a wider and more extensive vale, bounded in the north by a chalk ridge that runs from west to east through the centre of the county. The intermediate tract is very fine, and fuller of the hop culture than any part we had yet seen. The surface is seldom level but generally waving : the road hard and good, seemingly made of ironstone. Many village* interspersed, and comfortable houses, but few great seats. About Maidstone the scenery is rich and lively, and the vicinity of a considerable town displays itself. We arrived between twelve and one, and soon visited the best part of the town, which is tolerably handsome. The Medway is here of respectable- breadth and bears an appearance of business, but it is muddy, and the banks not pleasing. Therein a large old church with so low a steeple it makes no figure in the view. The remains of an old castle I suppose are near it. After dining and being kept in by a shower, we completed our walk through the town, and saw a handsome- pile of barracks, now conspicuous buildings in. most of our provincial capitals. The weather,, which had threatened a wet afternoon cleared up about five, and we proceeded for Wrotham. The country continued pleasant, and we gradually- approached the chalk ridge, which afforded some- striking views. At the close of a fine evening we reached our quarters. August 3lst. We left Wrotham in good time and soon crossed the chalk ridge, from the crest of which was a very extensive view of the country southward, comprising great part of the tract we had travelled through. The road beyond was- through a rather bleak and steril tract, till we came to the fine vale of the Dart, which we crossed