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is used it is better to cut them on the bias, and then the material is cloth the better result will be obtained if the straps are cut crosswise or bias of the goods.

For a finished strap, that is five-eights of an inch wide, the strips are cut one and one-fourth inches wide. Join the two raw edges with loose over-hand stitches as shown in Illustration 137, page 82; spread out the strap with the line of joining directly on the center, and press.

When making strap seams it is desirable to graduate the thickness at the seams as much as possible. For this reason, cut the seams either wide enough so the edges on the underside will extend beyond the edges of the strap, or cut them narrower so the edges of the strap will extend beyond the seam edges.

Baste the straps carefully over the seams, with a line of bastings run along each edge. (Ill. 164.) When it is necessary to piece the straps for long seams, avoid having the joining seam in a prominent place on the garment.

A LAPPED OR IMITATION STRAP SEAM is the most practical finish for unlined garments. The edges at the seams are lapped and the raw edges turned in with a row of stitches finishing it alike on the right and wrong sides. (Ill. 165.)

A RAW-EDGE LAPPED SEAM is used in making garments of heavy, closely woven material that will not fray or ravel. The seam edges must be cut very accurately and smoothly. Baste the edges evenly, lapping them the full allowance, and stitch as near the edge of the upper lap as possible. A second row of stitching five-eighths of an inch from the first gives it a neat and tailored finish. The seam on the under side should be trimmed off evenly. (Ill. 166.)

One should be very careful in deciding on the style of seam used on a tailored garment. Tweeds, homespuns, friezes, and all other rather loosely woven woolen materials should be finished with bound seams. In linens, pongees and crashes one should use the cord, bound or lapped seam. Broadcloth, meltons, kerseys, covert, and other heavy driving cloths can be pinked, as they are so closely woven that they will not ravel. To have a good tailored look the machine-stitchings on any seam must not be too fine. The thread and needle should be of medium thickness and the stitch should correspond in size.