Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/91

Rh the usual plain seam on the wrong side of the garment. The edge that is toward you should be trimmed down to ⅛ of an inch width. Turn the other edge toward you ⅛ of an inch and bring it to the seam line. (Ill. 149.) Finish it with a hemming stitch, Illustration 149, or by machine, or with small running stitches.

A FLAT FELL OR STITCHED SEAM has one edge hemmed down covering the other raw edge. It is used principally for wash garments such as muslin underwear made in medium-weight materials, for flannels, tailored waists and working aprons.

Baste the seam edges together on the

wrong side of the garment and sew the seam with combination stitch. If the edges are bias, sew from the broad part of the piece to the narrow part to prevent the material from raveling and stretching.

Remove the bastings and trim the edge toward you close to the sewing line. (Ill. 150.) Turn the other edge flatly over it, pressing hard with the thumb nail. Make a narrow turn, baste and hem. (Ill. 150.) This seam can be stitched by machine if preferred.

A LAPPED FELL OR STITCHED SEAM is used on flannels, tailored waists or where there is no right or wrong side. Lap one edge of the seam over the other with the seam lines exactly over each other and baste through the seam lines. Trim off the ravelings from the edges and turn the edges under so that they meet. (Ill. 151.) The edge on each side may be sewed with a hemming stitch or by machine. (Ill. 151.)

A ROLLED SEAM is used in sheer materials where an unusually narrow joining is required, and the material is likely to ravel or fray. Hold the seam edges together and trim off all the ravelings. Begin at the right end and roll the edges tightly between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand keeping the edges rolled for about 1½ inch ahead of the sewing. Whip the roll very close together making the stitches come under the roll and not through it. Draw the thread tight. (Ill. 152.) This seam will form a small roll.

N TAILORED garments keep the cloth smooth at the seams and make the stitching as even as possible and press carefully.

PLAIN SLAMS PINKED—In plain seams of very closely woven material that does not fray or ravel, the edges of the seams may be simply notched or pinked, and pressed open. (Ill. 153.)

PLAIN SEAMS BOUND—Plain seams of jackets, cloaks and other garments made of heavy material that will fray should be bound with satin, silk or farmers' satin. This is cut in bias