Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/66

62 marked by outlet perforations. A bias strip of interlining, or whatever is used in the fronts, should be basted into the wrist just above the turning line of the hem part, and the cloth turned over and catch-stitched to it. (Ill. 107.)

If a vent or opening is provided at the outer seam of the sleeve, the extension on the upper part is turned under for a hem; and the lower part, neatly faced with the lining, forms an underlap. This opening may be closed by buttons used as a decoration or by buttons and buttonholes. Finish the edge to match the edges of the coat. If stitching at cuff depth is desired, it must be made before closing the outside seam.

THE CUFF. Cut the interlining like the cuff pattern, of the same interlining material as used in the collar. Trim off the seam allowance of the upper edge and ends. Baste the interlining to the upper section of the cuff, turn the cuff edge over the interlining and catch-stitch them. (Ill. 108.) Turn under the outer edge and ends of the under section of the cuff one-eighth of an inch more than the upper section. Baste the under section to the upper section with its edge one-eighth of an inch from the edges of the outer section and fell the edges to position. (Ill. 108.) Put the cuff on the sleeve following the instructions given in the Deltor or Illustrated Instructions.

Baste the sleeves into the armholes. Try the coat on to see if the sleeve sets nicely. Then stitch it.

THE BUTTONS. When sewing on the buttons sew them through the coat and canvas interlining but not through the facing. (Chapter 24, page 115.)

THE LINING is the final step of coat-making; the outside must be entirely finished, the pockets put in, and all the ornamental stitching done before beginning on the lining. Silk, satin, crêpe de Chine and foulard are unquestionably the only satisfactory linings for a coat. Only the greatest necessity for economy warrants using a silk substitute as coat lining. The lining may match coat in color or a fancy silk or satin may be used accordingly to the style.

Cut the lining from the same pattern as the coat, allowing for any alterations which have been made in fitting.

Cut the lining of the fronts to extend to the front facings only, and cut the back pieces each one-half an inch wider than the pattern to allow for a small plait in the center back. Leave good seams, as the lining must be quite easy in width as well as length. (Ill. 100.) If it is tight it will draw the outside of the coat and make wrinkles.

Baste a small plait at the center back to avoid any possibility of tightness. With the back piece of the lining basted in the coat, the two outer edges will be raw. Catch these raw edges flat with a loose basting-stitch to the inside seams of the coat over which they lie. Now take the next piece of the lining and baste it through the center to the corresponding piece of the coat, then turn under the edge toward the back and baste it down like a hem over the raw edge of the back piece, notching the edges of both seams at the waistline and immediately above and below it, so they will fit the curves of the coat.

Repeat this method with each piece of the lining. Turn it up at the bottom, allowing a little of the cloth to show (Ill. 109) but do not let the lining draw.

After all the edges are turned under and basted over the preceding pieces and over the raw edges of the facings in front, and over the edges of the collar at the neck, they are neatly felled down to the cloth. (Ill. 109.) Be careful not to catch through to the outside.

The lining of the sleeves is cut like the outside and the seams are stitched and pressed open. If the sleeves are to be interlined, the interlining should be tacked to the sleeve lining. It is used on the upper part of the sleeve only, and should stop three inches below