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34 so that when the waist is closed the closing will not break the perfect succession of the plaids. The crosswise plaids in front must be on a line with the plaid in back so that when the underarm seam is joined the plaids will match perfectly. (Ill. 61.)

When making a waist of striped material, if the stripes of the material are cut bias or if the waist itself is cut on the bias, follow the same rules given in the paragraphs above for cutting the plaids.

CUTTING A SKIRT OF PLAID. In cutting a gored skirt of plaid material decide on the line or stripe that will look best at the center front. After the front is cut, lay it on your cutting table and place the uncut material beside it with the lengthwise and crosswise stripes matching. (Ill. 62.) Place the pattern of the side gore on the material, matching the front, and cut it.

Matching a plaid or stripe in this way frequently means wasting some of your material. That is unavoidable, however, for the plaid or figure must match even if the pattern has to be moved the width of a plaid or figure before the correct position is found. Cut each gore of the skirt in the same way so that the stripes and plaids will match in every gore.

Illustration 62 shows a skirt cut of plaid material. In this case the uncut material had to be lifted up in order to match the crosswise plaid, making it necessary to waste some of the material at the top. (Ill. 62.) This happens so frequently in cutting plaids that you must buy extra material for a plaid skirt or dress.

Striped, cheeked and plaid materials are very good-looking in a two-piece circular skirt with a bias seam down the front. (Ill. 63.) The pattern will give you explicit directions for cutting it in plaid or striped materials, so that you will get the proper bias at the seam. Follow the directions carefully.

In cutting a circular skirt of plaid or striped material cut one side first and then remove the pattern. Lay the piece that you have cut upon the material and match the plaid or stripes at all points before cutting other half of the skirt. When the skirt is put together the prominent lines of the plaids or stripes should have a mitered effect as shown in Illustration 63 and Illustration 64.