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 * The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0036.png ||| The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0037.png
 * Ill. 36. Increasing the Size of Collars and Neckbands ||| Ill. 37. Decreasing the Size of Collars and Neckbands
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In the kimono sleeve pattern measure from the center of the back below the neck to within ⅜ of an inch of the lower edge of the sleeve. (Ill. 35.) This ⅜ of an inch is a seam finish. The alterations for lengthening or shortening a kimono sleeve are exactly the same as for the one-seam sleeve. (Ills. 33 and 34.)

INCREASING OR DECREASING THE SIZE OF THE NECKBAND AND COLLAR—If the neckband of a pattern is not the right size for your neck it should be altered at the center back. If it is too small cut it through the center and separate the pieces sufficiently to make it the right size for you. Illustration 36 shows this alteration for neck-band and a turndown collar.

If the collar pattern is too large for you lay a plait across the center back. (Ill. 37.)

LENGTHENING AND SHORTENING GORED SKIRTS—Have your measure taken from the normal waistline at the center-front to the distance from the floor at which you wear your skirts. This length varies with different fashions. Add an inch to your measurement for the give and take of making the skirt. The front-length measurement of your skirt pattern will be given on the pattern envelope. Compare your measure with the length of the pattern. If the pattern is too long for you, lay a plait straight across each gore about six inches below the hipline. (Ill. 38.) The hipline is seven inches below the normal waistline. (Ill. 38.)

If the gores are cut with one straight edge, measure the plait at the straight edge. If both edges of the gore are bias, measure the plait at the line of large double perforations that mark the straight thread of the material.

If the figure is full, the edge of the gore on the bias side should be filled out from the folded plait to the