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If the sleeve pattern requires lengthening make the alteration at the same places in the pattern, cutting across the pattern and separating the pieces as in Illustration 30. Correct the outline of the edge in the same way as when the sleeve is shortened.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING A ONE-SEAM SLEEVE PATTERN OR A KIMONO SLEEVE PATTERN—One-seam sleeves and kimono sleeves fit the figure quite differently from the two-seam sleeve and so have to be measured in a different way. In using either of these sleeves have your arm measure taken from the center of your back along the outside of your arm to the wrist with the arm bent. (Ill. 31.)

In the case of a one-seam sleeve pin the sleeve pattern to the back pattern with the armhole edges lapping ¾ of an inch. If there is a cuff pin it to the lower part of the sleeve lapping them ¾ of an inch. Turn up the cuff in case the cuff is double. (Ill. 32.) Compare your measurements with the measurements of the pattern, and if the pattern is long or short for you, alter it as shown in Illustrations 33 and 34. A sleeve of this kind has no elbow curve, so that it is

not necessary to alter it above and below the elbow. It is simply a question of adding or subtracting length at the correct point. If the pattern is an inch too long for you lay a ½-inch plait across the pattern. (Ill. 33.) If it is too short slash the pattern and separate the pieces. (Ill. 34.) If your arm is full you can correct the outline by filling in below the plaits and above the slash. If it is of average size you can trim down above the plait and below the slash.