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20 depth of the plait will depend on the amount of difference between your figure and the length of the pattern.

If you find that your underarm measure and that of the pattern are the same, but that you are shorter-waisted than the pattern, the difference is in the upper part. Decrease the length of the upper part of the pattern by laying a plait across the front and back, half-way between the under arm and the neck. (Ill. 27.)

If you are long-waisted instead of short-waisted the lining pattern can be altered at the same points, by cutting the pieces of the pattern and separating them sufficiently to give you the length you need. (Ill. 28.)

In laying plaits across the pattern the edge of the pattern should be evened off after the plaits are laid.

If an alteration is made in the length of the lining a corresponding alteration must be made in the pattern of the outside of the waist or dress, taking out or putting in the same amount and in the same places.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE TWO SEAM SLEEVE PATTERNS—Your arm may measure exactly the same as the sleeve pattern, but its length might be made up of a long upper arm and of a short forearm. In that case the elbow of the pattern would not come in the right place on your arm. Or your arm may be perfectly proportioned, but it may be longer or shorter than the average, in which case an alteration would have to be made in both the upper and lower part of the sleeve pattern to make it the right length for you.

For a two-seam sleeve pattern measure along the inside of your arm from the armhole to the bend of the elbow, and from the bend of the elbow to the wrist. You will need both these measurements, so as to be sure that the sleeve elbow will come in the right place. Measure your sleeve pattern along the inside seam of the upper part from ⅜ of an inch below the armhole edge to the small double perforations which indicate the elbow. Measure from the elbow perforations to within ⅜ of an inch of the wrist edge. The ⅜ of an inch on each edge is the seam finish.

Compare your arm measurements with the measurements of the pattern. If the pattern is too long for you above the elbow lay a plait across the pattern a little above the elbow. (Ill. 29.) If there is an inch difference in length the plait should be ½ of an inch deep. If the lower part of the sleeve is too long for you lay a plait across the lower part below the elbow. (Ill. 29.)

The same alterations should be made in the under part of the sleeve pattern, making the plaits the same depth that you made in the upper part of the pattern.

When the plaits are laid the edge of the pattern will become uneven. If the arm is very full the space between the elbow and the greater width of the upper part of the sleeve should be filled out, giving you an even line. If the arm is not large you can trim off the extra width and get your even outline in that way.