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CHAPTER 3 ALTERING THE LENGTH OF PATTERNS Lengthening or Shortening a Waist Pattern — Lengthening and Shortening Sleeve Patterns Increasing or Decreasing the Size of Collars — Lengthening and Shortening Skirt Patterns UTTERICK PATTERNS are made with such expert skill and are the result of such scientific accuracy and study that they are an absolutely perfect fit for the woman of average proportions. But it often happens that a woman varies from the normal at some point. The variation may not be marked enough to be noticeable. But if she is an inch or two long or short waisted, if she is slightly round-shouldered, if the upper part of her arm is long in proportion to the lower part, her patterns wall have to be altered a trifle to make them correspond to her figure. The alterations are extremely easy to make, but this point again illustrates the advantage of making your clothes to suit your figure, to fit the irregularities of the figure that are taken care of in this chapter.

The changes that are given here may be made without altering the original lines of the pattern, though they should be made in the pattern and not in the garment after it is cut out. If you attempt to make these changes in fitting the garment it will mean more work than if you had made a simple alteration in the pattern before cutting out your material. Trying to alter the garment itself is unsatisfactory, even with the additional work, for these changes can not be made after the garment is cut.

Almost every woman knows if there is any variation from normal in her figure. She knows if she is tall or short, long-waisted or short-waisted, if she has round shoulders, a narrow back, a flat chest or a broad back, etc. Before cutting your material you must be sure that the pattern is the right length and shape for your particular figure.

ADAPTING PATTERNS TO LONG OR SHORT WAISTED FIGURES—Before cutting your material have your figure measured from the collar seam at the back of the neck to the normal waistline, and close up under the arms to the waistline. Make a memorandum of these measurements as they are taken.

Now take your lining pattern and take the corresponding measurements of the pattern. Remember that the back pattern has a ⅜ of an inch seam allowance at the neck and that there is a ⅜ of an inch seam allowance at the armhole edge under the arm.

Compare your measurements with the measurements of the pattern. In most cases it is sufficient to alter the waist length at the lower part. Some figures, however, are long-waisted from under the arm to the waistline and short from under the arm to the neck. If this is your case you will discover it in comparing your measurements with the measurements of the pattern. If the lower part is too long lay a plait across each piece about 2½ inches above the waistline. (Ill. 27.) The 19