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 CHAPTER 36

BOYS' AND MEN'S CLOTHES

Patterns—Alterations—Materials—Cutting—Putting the Garment Together—Trousers—The Fly—Trousers for Smaller Boys—Side Pockets—Trousers With No Fly—Top Edge of Trousers—Lower Edge of Trousers—Blouses on Coats—Strictly Tailored Coat—Canvas Lapels—Front Edges—Facing—Seams—Lining—Collar—Pockets—Bathrobes—House Jackets—Undergarments

T IS not difficult to make garments for boys and men if you go about it in the right way. It is mainly a matter of correct finish and careful pressing with hot irons whenever pressing is necessary. The frequent use of irons is a very important part of tailoring.

PATTERNS—It is essential to get the right-size patterns for tailored garments. The proper way to measure men and boys is given in Chapter 2, pages 12 and 13.

ALTERATIONS—If it is necessary to make any alterations in the length of a pattern they should be made before cutting your material. The Deltor or the pattern envelope will tell you where to make them.

ALTERING LENGTH OF BOYS' PATTERNS—When a boy of five or six years has the breast and waist measure of a nine-year-old size, even though he has the height of a six-year-old, it is better to get a nine-year-old pattern and shorten the coat, the sleeves and trousers.

The Coat and Sleeves Are Shortened in practically the same way as in a woman's waist. (Chapter 3, pages 19-21.)

To Shorten the Trousers considerable care is needed in determining just where the alteration should be made. The length of the underwaist to which they fasten has a great deal to do with their length when worn. It is well to measure an old pair of trousers on the child, taking the measure from the waist to the crotch and then to just below the knee, allowing for the extra fulness to fall over the knee in knickerbockers. Any alteration in length above the crotch should be made across the pattern below the extension for the pocket opening, changing the seam edges as little as possible. In the lower leg part, fold the plait across above the extension piece at the lower part of the leg. (Ill. 366.)

MATERIALS—Before cutting your material read Chapter 6 on "Materials, Sponging, Cutting," etc.

CUTTING—After the material has been properly sponged or shrunken lay the pattern on it as shown in the Deltor Layout or as directed in the pattern instructions. Use 161