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144 APPLIQUÉ EMBROIDERY—Shaped pieces of contrasting color can be appliqued on waists, dresses, etc., as a trimming. Usually the pieces are of the same material but in different color, but in some cases you can also use contrasting materials.

Some of the dresses etc., which are trimmed with squares, diamonds and circles of a contrasting material have a little embroidered motif in the center of each applied piece.

Quaint figures of Colonial ladies, Oriental children, etc., are used on dresses and waists. Some of these are applied from contrasting material.

Cut the pieces in any shape and size that you fancy and turn under the edges ⅛ of an inch. Be very careful not to stretch them. Baste them to the garment. The edges may be blanket-stitched to the garment (Ill. 344-B), felled down (Ill. 344-C) or fastened with small running stitches (Ill. 344-A). The blanket-stitching takes the most time but it is also the most effective.

SEWING ON MARABOU—The marabou must be sewed to a double strip of very thin material the color of the marabou. You can use China silk or fine lawn. The width of the strip should be regulated by the width of the marabou. Three-fourths or one-half an inch is about right when folded.

Fold the strip of material lengthwise with the edges lapping just a little. Lay the marabou flat on the table with the least attractive side uppermost. There is always one side that is a little better than the other. Be sure the marabou is flat and that there is no twist to it. Lay the strip over the stem of the marabou with its raw edges next the stem. Pin it in place at intervals and then sew it with stitches about ¾ an inch long. (Ill. 345). Take two stitches in each place so that they will hold firmly. (Ill. 345).

In sewing the marabou to the garment sew both edges of the strip with running stitches. The strip enables you to handle the marabou easily, keep it even, and prevents it from twisting.

HANDLING FUR—Pelts should always be cut with a knife from the wrong side so as not to cut the hair.

Joinings should be made so that all the hair runs one way.

Fur should be sewed with an ordinary short needle and strong cotton thread. Number 30 cotton is about the right weight.

Lay the pelts edge to edge and sew the edges together with an overhand stitch. (Chap. 16, page 82). Be careful to sew through the pelts only, without catching the hair in the sewing. The hair can be pushed through to the right side with the needle and after the sewing is finished the fur can be brushed gently to make the hair lie smooth. In this