Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/146

142 of material for the puffing may be cut straight or bias as you prefer. Tack the inner cords along the back to the puffing material. The outer cords will adjust themselves. Different arrangements in the number and spacing of the cordings may be used. Puffings of this kind make most delightful trimmings.

A PUFF RUFFLE is made of strips of chiffon, etc., double the width of the ruffle desired, plus the two inches required for the heading at the top. Fold the chiffon double, bringing the two raw edges together on a line one inch below the edge that will be the upper edge of the ruffle. Turn under the upper raw edge and run in the gathering thread, using small stitches. (Ill. 337.)

A BOX-PLAITED RUCHE is shown in the process of making in Illustration 338. The strips for the ruche may be cut bias or straight and in any width desired. The edges could be picoted or pinked. This ruche requires a little less than three times the finished length.

The plaits should be basted (Ill. 338) and then machine-stitched through the center. (Ill. 338.) They should not be pressed flat but should be left to stand out from the stitching.

A BOX-PLAITED TRIMMING JOINED TO A GARMENT WITH A CORD PIPING is shown in Illustration 339. The strips for the plaiting may be cut bias or straight. The outer edge of the plaiting may be pinked, picoted or finished with a very narrow hem.

The cord piping and the unfinished edge of the plaiting are joined together in a plain seam. (Ill. 339.) The seam is then turned down flatly under the plaits and the plaits are pressed.

A QUILLING OR SIMPLE SIDE-PLAITED TRIMMING is shown in Illustration 340. The strips of material may be cut bias or straight and should be three times as long as the finished trimming. The outer edge of the quilling may be picoted, hemmed or pinked, or the quilling may be made double.

The garment edge which the plaiting is to finish should be turned under the seam width and basted. (Ill. 340.) The plaiting is basted under this edge and sewed in position according to the material and finish of the garment. (Ill. 340.)