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Rh should be gathered twice so that the gathers will stay in the proper place.

The second row is made with the stitches directly in line with those of the first row and one-quarter or three-eighths of an inch below them. (Ill. 323.) If there is much fulness to be gathered, the spaces between the stitches may be lengthened.

GAGING OR FRENCH GATHERS is a style of shirring generally used where a quantity of material must be adjusted to a comparatively small space. (Ill. 324.) The stitches in this case are made evenly: long ones on the right side and short ones on the under side of the material. Each successive row of gathers has its long and short stitches parallel, respectively, with those of the preceding row. The threads are all drawn up evenly, and fastened at the ends.

SHIRRING is made of successive rows of gatherings. It is used as a trimming. There are several different kinds of shirring, the use of which must be determined somewhat by the character of the material and the style of the garment. Before beginning, it is best to mark the sewing lines with a colored thread to be sure to get the rows even. This thread can be drawn out when the shirring is finished.

A SIMPLE SHIRRING is shown in Illustration 325. The top edge is turned in and the first row shirred in close to the edge. The thread should be amply strong, with a good big knot at the end; for if the thread is weak and breaks, or the knot pulls through, the shirring will progress slowly, and the material will suffer unnecessarily in the working.

Shirring can also be done very successfully on the machine by using the gathering

Ill. 328. Cord Shirring